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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Wed 11, 2017 9:24 pm 
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john8750 wrote:
Your very welcome Peter. You certainly deserve it. Some marvelous work there. Please explain the procedure. Like, where do you start :?: :wink:

Easy:
Go to Ebay collectables... then select radio... then tube radio, ... then 1930-49
(1949-59 are more plastic AA5 cheaper crap radios)
But fun for 1st try.)

Then browse until you find one that seems attractive to you.
Then read about a bit.

If it hasn't been screwed with... but as original.... and if the inside look pretty good.
... and if you like the price... then look at the cabinet for how much work if any required.
Then bid or buy it.

I suggest to get your feet wet... just buy a cheap AA5 radio and rebuild it. It will be easy and faster. No great expense. That will be fun when you hear it play after the restore.

When after you do that 1st AA5... then you will be better prepared for a more complicated bigger old wooden radio next.

Next:
The schematics will be found at http://www.nostalgiaair.org
Then print it out and follow it to look up the values of the parts.

Best for safety to work w/power through an isolation transformer as most of the AA5 sets had 2-wire cords no transformer.

AA5 primer:
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/fun ... AA5-1.html

AA5 radios have 5 tubes all filaments in series add up to 122v
35Z5 rectifier
12sa7 Rf/mixer
12sk7 IF amp
12sq7 detector/ 1st audio
50L6 power amp.

Replace the Ecaps in the power supply 1st

Then try power to see if B+ is ok.

You will need to also replace all the old waxed paper caps too. (not all at once)
Replace all w/630vDC yellow axial film caps or green mylar radial caps @630vdc - one at a time.

If the radio has sound... replace only one cap at a time and then test after each to still get sound ok this is good practice... so you don't get too far out of whack.

Test the resistors to meet 20% tolerance... replace as needed.

The schematic will also show how to tweak the IF cans and realign the radio w/a signal generator if needed.

We are all here to walk you through all of it.

Here's some good cheap original starter AA5 radios:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-WHITE-B ... SwiONYLAcb

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-OLYMPIC ... Swa~BYbAFz

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-AM-Gene ... SwnHZYZqqI

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-VICTOR-BAKE ... SwA3dYdQSi

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Wed 11, 2017 10:50 pm 
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Just WOW Peter 8)
I really like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-VICTOR-BAKE ... SwA3dYdQSi
What do you think of the price $65

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Wed 11, 2017 10:56 pm 
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There is a station on 1000KHZ in my home town. But nothing strong. In town all stations are weak. Inside my house there is no reception. So I think there will be no problem.

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Wed 11, 2017 10:57 pm 
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john8750 wrote:
Just WOW Peter 8)
I really like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-VICTOR-BAKE ... SwA3dYdQSi
What do you think of the price $65

Well... perhaps you could find another cheaper... but you'll have to hunt for good ones. I like them undisturbed, with no cracked case and nice looks.
So $65 isn't bad .. but not much more.

You can probably strip the white paint off easily and have a perfect - like new- brown Bakelite case that has been protected all these years by the paint.

Be careful taking the case off not to poke a hole in the fragile old paper speaker cone.

If it's slightly torn can be patched w/ white glue... or brush a slurry of white glue & water over whole thing to strengthen the dried out paper.

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Wed 11, 2017 11:10 pm 
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That radio is an RCA 45X12
here's the schematic:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 014952.pdf

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Wed 11, 2017 11:49 pm 
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john8750 wrote:
Wait a minute. I must have the correct knobs. Now what?
Looks like I will get the other Mallory after all. She contacted me with an explanation.
You can try to find the right knobs but that may be difficult.

Here's the knob they show on it.

Attachment:
s-l1600.jpg
s-l1600.jpg [ 91.46 KiB | Viewed 544 times ]


This is the Mallory knob.

Attachment:
Mallory Knob.jpg
Mallory Knob.jpg [ 56.82 KiB | Viewed 544 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 12:27 am 
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Flipperhome wrote:
john8750 wrote:
Wait a minute. I must have the correct knobs. Now what?
Looks like I will get the other Mallory after all. She contacted me with an explanation.
You can try to find the right knobs but that may be difficult.

Here's the knob they show on it.

Attachment:
s-l1600.jpg


This is the Mallory knob.

Attachment:
Mallory Knob.jpg



That's not a bad looking knob. It kinda fits.
BTW Flip, on the preamp, all my RCA jacks are totally isolated. Signal and return. So I will run all returns to a common by the selector switch. The shield, I guess will be connected to the chassis.

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 12:31 am 
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Pbpix wrote:
That radio is an RCA 45X12
here's the schematic:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 014952.pdf




Great. So first, you would replace all electrolytic caps, check resistances. Of course first clean and check for damage.
This is exciting. Will be right after the transmitter project. I guess I should buy one now. And I like that RCA.

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 12:40 am 
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john8750 wrote:
Pbpix wrote:
That radio is an RCA 45X12
here's the schematic:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 014952.pdf




Great. So first, you would replace all electrolytic caps, check resistances. Of course first clean and check for damage.
This is exciting. Will be right after the transmitter project. I guess I should buy one now. And I like that RCA.

Yes.. good idea.

And a buy a bunch of small value mylar caps as listed... but get all 630vdc

Typical values to have around are:
.01uf
.001uf
.02uf or .022uf
.05uf or .047uf
.005uf or .0047uf
.002uf or .0022uf
.025uf or .022uf
0.1uf

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 1:05 am 
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Posts: 7291
Location: Texas. USA
john8750 wrote:
That's not a bad looking knob. It kinda fits.
BTW Flip, on the preamp, all my RCA jacks are totally isolated. Signal and return. So I will run all returns to a common by the selector switch. The shield, I guess will be connected to the chassis.
No, it's not a bad looking knob.

I'd connect shield to the negative but only at the switch (so there's no current flow through it).


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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 1:45 am 
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Flipperhome wrote:
john8750 wrote:
That's not a bad looking knob. It kinda fits.
BTW Flip, on the preamp, all my RCA jacks are totally isolated. Signal and return. So I will run all returns to a common by the selector switch. The shield, I guess will be connected to the chassis.
No, it's not a bad looking knob.

I'd connect shield to the negative but only at the switch (so there's no current flow through it).




Exactly what I planed Flip. Thanks so much. The amp is coming together. Now I understand how a PCB would be a good idea. Especially for the small PF caps. I roasted two 15pf. But I ordered a few extras so no problem. What happened was I installed them, then installed resistors and a .47 jumbo on top. Then noticed I scorched them with the soldering iron. So I cut them out, and installed the new ones on top. Come out good. I am building a small prefab CB for the tone circuits. But having great fun.

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 6:32 pm 
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Pbpix wrote:
john8750 wrote:
Pbpix wrote:
That radio is an RCA 45X12
here's the schematic:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 014952.pdf




Great. So first, you would replace all electrolytic caps, check resistances. Of course first clean and check for damage.
This is exciting. Will be right after the transmitter project. I guess I should buy one now. And I like that RCA.

Yes.. good idea.

And a buy a bunch of small value mylar caps as listed... but get all 630vdc

Typical values to have around are:
.01uf
.001uf
.02uf or .022uf
.05uf or .047uf
.005uf or .0047uf
.002uf or .0022uf
.025uf or .022uf
0.1uf




OK Peter. I guess those caps should be audio grade? or will the yellow ones be OK.
What type do you use for replacements?

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 7:13 pm 
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Was looking at this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252690641901?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
I think it is AM and another band. Has 6 tubes and a selenium stack. Could the face glass be replaced/repaired? It is only $42.50 shipped to my house. I also like the RCA, although looks like a crack in the plastic case on the top. But that face for the dial indicator is gorges. That would sell it in my opinion.

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 7:29 pm 
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john8750 wrote:


OK Peter. I guess those caps should be audio grade? or will the yellow ones be OK.
What type do you use for replacements?

Yellow caps @ 630v are perfect.. or the smaller easier to fit, lower cost, green Mylar radial caps @630v as sold by http://www.justradios.com

Polyester Film "Green Dips" ( 630V )
( sold in economical bags of 50 )
http://www.justradios.com/MYLARcapacitors.html

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 7:40 pm 
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john8750 wrote:
Was looking at this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252690641901?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
I think it is AM and another band. Has 6 tubes and a selenium stack. Could the face glass be replaced/repaired? It is only $42.50 shipped to my house. I also like the RCA, although looks like a crack in the plastic case on the top. But that face for the dial indicator is gorges. That would sell it in my opinion.

The Detrola is good too... but how do you know it has 6 tubes etc... there was no model number listed to look that up? Did you use the right link?

Yes the dial covers are available or make your own easily.

If you think the RCA has a crack ask the seller before you buy it.
Cracks can be glued but look like crack still... that's how I got into having cracked radios painted by local auto painter guy.

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 8:38 pm 
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Pbpix wrote:
john8750 wrote:
Was looking at this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252690641901?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
I think it is AM and another band. Has 6 tubes and a selenium stack. Could the face glass be replaced/repaired? It is only $42.50 shipped to my house. I also like the RCA, although looks like a crack in the plastic case on the top. But that face for the dial indicator is gorges. That would sell it in my opinion.

The Detrola is good too... but how do you know it has 6 tubes etc... there was no model number listed to look that up? Did you use the right link?

Yes the dial covers are available or make your own easily.

If you think the RCA has a crack ask the seller before you buy it.
Cracks can be glued but look like crack still... that's how I got into having cracked radios painted by local auto painter guy.




Peter, the crack is visible in the photo. The Detrola is 343. Check it out.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 004015.pdf

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If I did something right, I made a mistake.


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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 9:23 pm 
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john8750 wrote:
Pbpix wrote:
john8750 wrote:
Was looking at this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252690641901?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
I think it is AM and another band. Has 6 tubes and a selenium stack. Could the face glass be replaced/repaired? It is only $42.50 shipped to my house. I also like the RCA, although looks like a crack in the plastic case on the top. But that face for the dial indicator is gorges. That would sell it in my opinion.

The Detrola is good too... but how do you know it has 6 tubes etc... there was no model number listed to look that up? Did you use the right link?

Yes the dial covers are available or make your own easily.

If you think the RCA has a crack ask the seller before you buy it.
Cracks can be glued but look like crack still... that's how I got into having cracked radios painted by local auto painter guy.

That's the schematic


Peter, the crack is visible in the photo. The Detrola is 343. Check it out.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 004015.pdf

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 9:24 pm 
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you frustrate me when you don't answer the other questions too... lol
But where did you find the other radio was 6 tube, w/selenium stack?
Which radio?

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 10:30 pm 
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Pbpix wrote:
you frustrate me when you don't answer the other questions too... lol
But where did you find the other radio was 6 tube, w/selenium stack?
Which radio?



Again, I don't know what you are talking about. Go here and you will find the model number. Detrola 343.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 004015.pdf
Im not sure that is the correct schematic yet. It shows two different schematics.
The number on the set says 343, 9259. I believe the No. 9259 is a serial No.

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 Post subject: Re: PRINCELY PAUPER
PostPosted: Jan Thu 12, 2017 11:16 pm 
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john8750 wrote:
Pbpix wrote:
you frustrate me when you don't answer the other questions too... lol
But where did you find the other radio was 6 tube, w/selenium stack?
Which radio?



Again, I don't know what you are talking about. Go here and you will find the model number. Detrola 343.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymode ... 004015.pdf
Im not sure that is the correct schematic yet. It shows two different schematics.
The number on the set says 343, 9259. I believe the No. 9259 is a serial No.

But that was not the link before. The other link was to the ebay picture of the Detronla radio... but no model number.

This lick is only a schematic... which is the picture on Ebay for this?

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