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 Post subject: Step by Step Restoration of RCA Victor SHF-8 Record Player
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 2:32 am 
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Here it is guys...the thread you've all been waiting on. :wink: I am restoring my 1958 RCA Victor SHF-8 and I'm going to walk you through each step of the restoration with pictures. This will be old hat to many of you who have been restoring these players for years. But for the new members of the board, hopefully they will learn how it's done. It's the way I do it.... maybe not the way anyone else on the board does it... but I do the very best I can. When completed, I am very proud of the finished results. My buddy, badrestorer up in Conway, Arkansas, talked me into doing this step-by-step restoration thread for you guys. John doesn't realize how difficult it is to shoot pictures as you work with a Nikon digital SLR with a 24-120 zoom lens hanging around your neck. Anyway, here's the set as I found it... dirty and has flea bites all over the cabinet.

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Look at all that tape residue on the tonearm. Yuk! Why to people have to do that? I hate removing tape residue.........

Well, here goes..........


Last edited by Larry H on Aug Fri 28, 2009 3:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 2:37 am 
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I absolutely hate working in dirt, so the very first order of business is to do some cleaning on the player. One must first remove the bottom of the cabinet. This player only had four screws holding the cabinet bottom on...several were missing.

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One screw wouldn't come out with my Phillips screwdriver, so I had to use the variable speed drill to remove it.

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Wow, in the bottom of the case I found the missing Victrola foil logo that goes on the inside of the lid. It was under there in perfect condition! You never know what you will find inside these cabinets.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 2:43 am 
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Before you can do any serious cleaning, the changer must be removed from the cabinet. First, remove the plugs from the amp chassis for the pickup and power to the changer motor.

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Then, remove the clips that hold the changer into the cabinet, and their washers. Just pinch on the clip and it will pull right out. There will be between 2 and 4 of these clips holding the changer into the cabinet. Remove all of them.

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Then the changer will lift straight up and right out of the cabinet.

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There's the changer removed from the cabinet:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 2:49 am 
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Once the changer is removed, it will reveal 50-plus years of dirt and grime that has been hidden under the lip of the changer. Wow, that's dirty.

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The control panel plate and knobs are equally filthy:

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Remove the control panel plate with a small Phillips screwdriver.

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Here are the knobs and control panel plate once removed. Notice how nasty and filthy they are.

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I clean them in the kitchen sink with a warm solution of Dawn and water. Use a soft old toothbrush to gently clean the knobs, taking care that you don't knock any lettering off the knobs. Rinse and dry. When done, the knobs and plate sparkle like new money:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 2:53 am 
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Location: Conway, Arkansas
Larry,
Even though I'm a radio type, you have captured my interest. I'll be watching with fervor. Good job so far.
The names of the individual mechanical parts of the changer will interest me most. I hope you plan to id them.

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John


Last edited by badrestorer on Aug Fri 28, 2009 3:26 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 2:57 am 
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Next I use household degreaser that you can get at Dollar General or Wal-Mart to clean the cabinet. Spray the degreaser all over the inside of the cabinet, and wipe the dirt up with paper towels. In fact, I use degreaser almost exclusively now since no grease or oil is too tough for this stuff. It does a wonderful job of cleaning the wooden cabinet. I clean the entire cabinet with it.

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Spray the degreaser on the ends of Q-tips for cleaning the vent holes in the cabinet. It works good.

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Here is the cabinet a lot cleaner than when I started. The cabinet looks a lot better now.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 3:04 am 
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As parts are removed, bag them up in baggies and label where they go. You don't want to lose any screws, changer clips or any other parts. Don't just throw all the parts into one bag. You will wind up with over a half dozen baggies of parts before you're finished.

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The next step is to remove the amplifier from the cabinet. Remove the four screws that hold it into the cabinet with a 1/4 inch nut driver. I've only seen one RCA player so far that used a different size screw than that. Once the amplifier is removed, un-solder the two wires that go from the audio amplifier to the phono-stereo switch or wherever they may be connected.

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Now you've got the dirty amplifier out of the cabinet. Notice that I labeled each wire that I unsoldered with information as to where they go. If you don't do this you will forget which wire goes where a month from now.

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Last edited by Larry H on Aug Fri 28, 2009 3:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 3:18 am 
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The cabinet is clean, right? No, I still have to vacuum the underside of the cabinet with my trusty Kirby vacuum cleaner. Note the cobwebs in this picture. A spider lived in there at one time.

Tip: Be careful when vacuuming that you don't vacuum up any loose parts like C-Clips, washers or other important parts.

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Once vacuumed, the underside of the cabinet looks pretty clean.

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Tune in tomorrow for another edition of Larry's famous record player restoration thread. :lol: :lol: :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 3:55 am 
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So, tell me, Larry. What are you doing with the selenium rectifier, paper capacitors, and, paper electrolytics?
Bill Cahill

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 7:43 am 
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Bill Cahill wrote:
So, tell me, Larry. What are you doing with the selenium rectifier, paper capacitors, and, paper electrolytics?
Bill Cahill


The amp will be restored when the proper time comes. I expect I will do that sometime next week. I will replace all of the caps, including the electrolytics. I won't replace the selenium rectifier if it is working right.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 11:02 am 
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Wrong answer! Seleniums are always at least leaky.
Never a good idea to leave them in.
Adn, you'll have to add another resistor to cut down surge from more efficent silicon diode.
The selenium in mine would work for a few min., the, start smelling bad. The owner put a fan inside to try to privent over heating. It workded for awhile until selenium shorted.
And, it WILL Short.
Bill Cahill

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 7:18 pm 
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I'm back on it again today. I've got to get the speakers and speaker board that holds the grillcloth out of the cabinet.

First, remove the masonite panel in the changer compartment.

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Once that is removed, the woofer and two tweeters mounted on angled horns will be within view. In order to remove these three speakers, you have to remove all the screws across the bottom of them from underneath the cabinet; then, remove all the screws across the top. The speakers will just drop down gently to the bottom of the cabinet.

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Remove the phonograph-stereo switch and also the speaker jack at the back of the cabinet. Both of these are connected in a harness to the speakers.

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Here are the speakers removed from the cabinet. Notice how much dirt is inside the tweeter horns and also along the edge of the woofer. That's over 50 years of dirt that has collected there.

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Out comes the Kirby vacuum again. It did a nice job removing all this filth. I still went over the front and back of the horns with degreaser on a paper towel. They cleaned up nicely.

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They look a lot better clean. Once this was done, I gently stored them in a cardboard box and put them away for safe keeping.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 7:25 pm 
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You will see several screws holding the speaker board into the cabinet. Remove all these screws. The speaker board on my set had a bunch of extra holes too, so I took a black Sharpie pen and circled all the places where mine had screws. I didn't want a screw to go through the grillcloth at the wrong place later. One screw stripped out on me and I had to drill the screw out with my variable speed drill. That took awhile, and eventually I got it drilled deep enough to allow the speaker board to pop off of it.

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The speaker board will come out at an angle through two openings that RCA left just for that purpose.

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Here's the speaker board with grillcloth still attached once removed. I am going to have to do some re-gluing of the grillcloth at a couple of places around the edges before I clean the grillcloth.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 7:30 pm 
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Here's the cabinet all stripped down to the bare essentials. I was unable to remove the new Orthophonic plate on top of the lid, so I have decided to just leave it alone and stain around it. I will use stain on Q-tips if I have to.

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Some light sanding with 320-grit sandpaper was necessary at several places on the cabinet.

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I was going to work on refinishing the cabinet today, but it is hotter than usual outside and they are calling for thundershowers this afternoon. I think I will wait until early next week when it is supposed to be a lot cooler.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 9:37 pm 
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I decided that I would spend today finishing cleaning the amplifier, tubes and changer. I prefer working on clean equipment.

I remove the tubes, and lay them out next to the amp in the sequence they go in. Be sure to do this or you might get a tube back in the wrong place. I use my degreaser again to remove all the dirt, oil and grease off the chassis.

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I take the tubes one at a time and clean them with a paper towel gently wet with water. Be sure you don't use the wet towel on the area where the 12AX7 (or other tube number) is. Gently dry with a dry rag, and dust the tube where the tube number is. Re-install the tubes and they look like new again on the clean chassis.

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Here's the underside of the amplifier. All those old yellow paper capacitors and three section electrolytic filter capacitors (in the big yellow cardboard can) will be replaced. That will come another day. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 11:08 pm 
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It's changer cleaning time. Here's the old dirty RCA RP-205 changer needing a bath.

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Remove the turntable platter from the changer.

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It's degreaser and paper towel time again. I spray the entire top of the changer with the degreaser, then wipe it off with paper towels. This has to be repeated several times in some places.

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The old soft toothbrush comes in handy for cleaning the dirt out of the grooves of the rear of the tonearm.

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Last edited by Larry H on Aug Fri 28, 2009 11:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 11:15 pm 
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Goo Gone works well in removing the tape residue from the tonearm. You have to scrub it up to 10 times to get all the tape residue off. Tip: women's hair spray can also be used to remove tape residue. I learned that in my counter cleaning days at Wal-Mart.

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Q-tips soaked in degreaser work well for cleaning the inside edge under the platter we have removed. I use paper towels gently sprayed with degreaser to clean all parts there.

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Doug VanCleave gave me this tip for cleaning the rusty looking residue around the 10-inch indexing button. Use a Q-tip soaked in Soft Scrub and the discoloration will come right off.

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Last edited by Larry H on Aug Sat 29, 2009 12:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Fri 28, 2009 11:24 pm 
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The rubber mat from the turntable platter goes to the kitchen sink for a bath using Dawn and the old soft toothbrush.

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The turntable platter itself gets a bath as well. I then use degreaser to clean all grease off the inner rim of the turntable platter.

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Both the rubber mat and the platter are taken outside to dry.

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Once dry, the rubber mat is re-installed on the platter. There are three little rubber tips on the back of the mat that go through three holes in the platter to keep the mat from slipping when playing records. Care must be taken to push these back through the three holes.

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Use a flat head screwdriver to remove any of the old foam rubber at the bottom of the 45rpm spindle well. This old foam rubber turns to an orange looking material, and it comes off in big chunks. Use a vacuum cleaner to vacuum out all the deteriorated orange chunks of old foam. Once it is all removed, clean the inside of the spindle well with a rag soaked in degreaser. I will install new foam in the spindle well later.

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The turntable platter is re-installed in the changer and the cleaning of the changer is finished. I may have to Armorall the mat as there is some discoloration on it.

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Tomorrow I will service the RCA RP-205 changer.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Sat 29, 2009 3:25 am 
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Hopefully some of the newer members of the board are learning something from this restoration. As I said in the beginning, it will be old hat to the experienced restorers, but hopfully the newbies will be able to restore their RCA Victor New Orthophonics after this thread is done.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Sat 29, 2009 4:18 am 
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Great thread, Larry! You are doing a fine job so far. Nice bit of good fortune finding that lid plate inside the bottom of the cabinet. Close call there! 8)


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