You don't need to replace the whole thing. You need to touch up the spots and you need to do it with oil paint.
Others here will say to do it with acrylic paint, but I will say it flat out that no one in radio restoration has posted samples of their work that shows they can even come close to what I have demonstrated can be done with oil paints.
I know that may sound bad, but I'm 77 now and have no time for courtesy or silence that gives consequence to those that advocate using acrylic. Use acrylics and you'll find the paint is dry before you realize the color isn't right. Then you paint over it and pretty soon you have built up paint that you have to sand down leaving you with more damaged photofinish. Learn to use oil paint!!!!
Here is a picture of the brushes. You will need smaller and more pointed brushes than those on the left;
If you plan to stay in this hobby, get the oil paint and do some practice and you will have a skill that will serve you on many radios to come
I always use artists oil paint because the slow drying time is an asset when you have to wipe off color you're not satisfied with and it also allows you more time to blend colors.
Oil Paints- You can use the cheaper "student grade" oil colors. Most major oil paint suppliers put out a line of these and you can find them in art supply stores.
Oil based stains- You can mix them with the oil paints to adjust color.
Plastic drinking straws- Use them to keep the stain stirred and put a finger on the top to suction out small amounts.
Aluminum foil, wax paper, or plastic sheet to mix the paint on.
Paint thinner and rags- Lots of rags.
Brushes- You don't need all the brushes in the photo. One of each type will do and they don't have to be expensive brushes. On the left are examples of the the types of brushes for applying the paint. In the middle are blending brushes. They have to be soft brushes. I generally use a brush like the one on the left. The brushes women use for blending their makeup works well and I buy them in garage sales. On the right is the grainline brush. It has to have a fine point and should be no less than 3/4" long. Those short tiny brushes are useless because they don't hold enough paint.
The first step is to get the correct color of the wood. You mix the paint on the foil and apply a small amount on the wood. If you don't like the color, wipe it off with paint thinner and a rag. Adjust your color and apply some again. If it isn't right, wipe it off. There is no substitute for this and you repeat it until you have the correct color.
Next is the blending brush. You use it in a light flicking way so that only the very tips of the brush are doing the blending. Wipe the tips on a rag often so you keep them as dry as possible. The blending brush will smooth out your paint nice and even.
"dry brush" is a technique used by many artists. Essentially, the fine point brush is prepared so that it makes a fine line and the artist uses it like a sharpened color pencil.
The color coat should be dry to the touch before painting grainlines. To prepare the brush, mix your woodgrain color very fluid. Wrap a tissue around the ferrule and slide it up to absorb some of the fluid paint. Then lightly wipe the tip across the tissue and the brush will be ready to paint grainlines. For fuzzier, multiple grain lines you can splay out the tips. Splay them out some more and you can do little dots.
For touching up burls - Prepare the fine point brush for each color the same as you do for grainlines. Use short strokes to paint each color and use the blending brush with even lighter flicks of the tips.
Note - When you wet any brush and bend the bristles over, they should snap back in place when you release them. If they stay bent over, you don't have a brush, you have a mop. Don't use it.
If you decide to do this and have questions, e-mail me
genus123 at att dot net