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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Thu 31, 2015 5:19 am 
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To pixellany:

Just a thought, if your switch has a diode, reducing the temperature, then does the temperature sensor (magnet I believe) actually notice that, or does the magnet stay on longer to maintain electrical flow till the temperature is met. What you are showing is a WTCPT model WHICH I BELEVE uses a magnet rather than a current sensor.

So if it reduces ( let's say the negative voltage of the A.C. ) then only 1/2 of the current would be supplied, which would work on a non-temperature regulated soldering Iron. Lowering the current, hence the temperature also.

But the temperature compensation sensor on your unit would have to have the current stay on longer just to maintain the correct temperature. I guess the time is the issue, 50% with the diode sytem, vs temperature turn on time. It would be an interesting observation which is more efficient as far as actual power consumption.

Probable would have to monitor the temperature on- off cycle to see what it's time vs current usage would be.

This is just a conundrum to me.

:?

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Thu 31, 2015 5:16 pm 
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Sorry if my post was confusing.

The iron with the switch is the classic Ungar---no temperature control. It is mounted on the board next to my WTCPT.

I'll have a better picture when I get it all on the permanent base.

No need for gimmicks like this if the iron is temperature controlled. My WTCPT will run all day with no ill effects (but I'm sure it would shorten tip life...)

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Thu 31, 2015 8:38 pm 
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That is a brilliant solution.
Even if the holder is solid without a coiled spring, just having the switch adjusted to where the tip of the iron touches the switch would accomplish the same results. I have a Weller early style temperature controlled tip, and have NEVER had to replace the tip in over 40 years of service.

I did get a duplicate one about a year ago from one of our members, and found it wasn't regulating the temperature, it went from hot to cold during use.

Strange, so I pulled it apart and found that one wire was broken in two pieces, making contact, or breaking contact when the iron was used. Don't be suprised at the difficulty when you disassemble the iron, as it uses very teeny screws and lugs. Stripping away the silicone sleeve is easy, but finding the break in the wire was a lot more dodgy. The screws were not the easiest to handle, but very easy to loose. Since the lugs are to small to salvage, be stocked up with a couple before repairs.

All went well and te iron is now reliable. One of the best investment ever. I have yet to use my resistance soldered. Also I noted that Hakko has an induction tip temperate control.

I am sure another method that would work would be to use sensor either magnetic or light to switch to half power. :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Thu 31, 2015 11:31 pm 
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Quote:
I am sure another method that would work would be to use sensor either magnetic or light to switch to half power.
My inner Rube Goldberg can think of many solutions.

If you have an iPhone, train Siri to recognize the sound of the iron going into the holder. Then the iPhone sends a command to ??---etc.

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Jan Sun 03, 2016 2:36 am 
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pixellany wrote:
Quote:
I am sure another method that would work would be to use sensor either magnetic or light to switch to half power.
My inner Rube Goldberg can think of many solutions.

If you have an iPhone, train Siri to recognize the sound of the iron going into the holder. Then the iPhone sends a command to ??---etc.

Well my IPad has GPS, so Mebe have it turn the iron on or off as I enter or leave the room.

I just got a power strip through our electric company promotion for $10.
it has outlets that when you turn your TV on provide power to a sound bar, DVD etc.. they also have power, plus two full time sockets.
it included an infrared sensor that detects movement if the TV is on, it turns the entire system off if there is no movement or remote activity after 2 or 3 hours. Then if no further activity shuts down the strip after 8 hours. I can see my soldering Iron on that. 8)

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Jan Thu 07, 2016 8:35 pm 
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I have now actually USED my Rube Goldberg creation. Working a set that needed a lot of chassis soldering. Turned on the Ungar and it idled at 1/2 power for many hours without getting any significant buildup of crud. Whenever I pull it out of the holder, it gets up to full temperature in less than 30 seconds.
When idling, it is still hot enough to melt 60/40 solder, but not hot enough to start destroying itself.

So--on-demand soldering of just about anything on standby power of 24 watts (full power 48)

What's fun about this is that there was no engineering involved--I simply GUESSED that a diode in series might work. (Ask me how some of my other guesses have worked out.....;) )

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Jan Sat 16, 2016 6:10 pm 
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Pronouncing the L in solder is a UK thing. There are plenty of differences in pronunciation between US and UK countries usage. Have you ever heard of the Central American country called Nica-RAG-you-ah? Did you take your VIT-a-min this morning? How difficult is it to soLder ah-lou-MIN-eum? Right or wrong doesn't enter here: they are just differences, that's all.

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Jan Sat 23, 2016 12:22 am 
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wrnewton wrote:
Pronouncing the L in solder is a UK thing.


Australia too. Listen to some EEVBlog videos. I can't get used to it. I still say "sodder".


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Jan Sat 23, 2016 1:15 am 
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There all just being nitpicky.
The Word officially is welding, because when you "SLOBBER" there are three metals that migrate into each other. They form metal bonding, Because of chemical action. Tin, lead, copper, or gold, or bismuth, or silver.
But the way most Repaired Solder jobs, look more like they SLOBBERED rather than neat and clean shiny Joints.
SLOBBER I Tells YA! :mrgreen:

Soldering is just a euphemism for Welding and also brazing.

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