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 Post subject: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Fri 18, 2015 8:27 pm 
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I guess Mr. Carlson doesn't post here anymore but I thought this particular video was most useful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79uD6XwBg5E

Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Tue 22, 2015 2:54 pm 
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Location: Fairfield, OH USA
I have a gun exactly like the one he used and never could get it hot enough to solder to a chassis. Last night I tried his suggestion and it worked great, easily soldered to the chassis.

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Tue 22, 2015 3:21 pm 
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I have not found anything to match the classic Ungar discussed here:
http://www.byan-roper.org/steve/steve-a ... ompon.html

Even though the power is only ~ 50 watts, one of these will solder to a cold water pipe.

The tip temperature is high, and leaving it on causes a rapid buildup of oxides. I have just finished a rig with an "idle switch" to reduce the power when the iron is in the holder.

High power is not necessarily the answer for soldering to a chassis.....what you need is good coupling and thermal mass.

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"Measure voltage, but THINK current." --anon.


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Tue 22, 2015 5:49 pm 
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Location: Katy, Texas
thanks pixellany.

My old weller broke years ago and I was in a hurry to get a replacement (i needed on that day) so unfortunately bought a Radio Shack gun. It works but has a different method to attach the tips. I'm going to be on the lookout for an old big weller or one of these Ungars.

Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Tue 22, 2015 8:20 pm 
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targeteye wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79uD6XwBg5E


Cmon everyone, let's all practice our over/mispronunciation of the word solder...

:roll:

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Tue 22, 2015 8:46 pm 
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solllllllllder!

Man that mispronunciation drove me crazy trying to watch the video.

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Tue 22, 2015 8:58 pm 
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Hey .. Let practice this forums reputation for being full of a bunch of grouchy old farts!

I believe he is Canadian.

http://dictionary.cambridge.org/pronunciation/english/solder

Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Tue 22, 2015 10:29 pm 
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pixellany wrote:
The tip temperature is high, and leaving it on causes a rapid buildup of oxides. I have just finished a rig with an "idle switch" to reduce the power when the iron is in the holder.

Can we see a photo of your rig? Did you use a diode to drop the power when idle?

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Wed 23, 2015 4:13 am 
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Location: Grand Chute, Wisconsin
I've been doing that short curved copper wire tip thing for over 30 years. But it's only usable in maybe 10% of the situations where you want to solder to the chassis. There's no way you can reach into most chassis with that. It is too bulky and you'd damage all the nearby components trying to maneuver it into position.

There's nothing quite like having a good old "American Beauty" for chassis soldering.

.


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Wed 23, 2015 4:26 am 
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stevebyan wrote:
pixellany wrote:
The tip temperature is high, and leaving it on causes a rapid buildup of oxides. I have just finished a rig with an "idle switch" to reduce the power when the iron is in the holder.

Can we see a photo of your rig? Did you use a diode to drop the power when idle?

Tomorrow--but only if you promise not to laugh.....

Yes--diode in series. Serendipity was alive--in idle mode, it stays above melting point of solder---AND stays clean. Still need to test how long it takes to go from idle to full heat.

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"Measure voltage, but THINK current." --anon.


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Wed 23, 2015 4:32 am 
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That short tip trick would not work at all with my chassis soldering method. I depend on a large tip to create a "solder patch" maybe 1/2" diameter--to which I attach the widget by simply tinning it, pressing into the patch and then holding in place with a screwdriver while the solder solidifies.

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"Measure voltage, but THINK current." --anon.


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Wed 23, 2015 11:49 am 
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stevebyan wrote:
pixellany wrote:
The tip temperature is high, and leaving it on causes a rapid buildup of oxides. I have just finished a rig with an "idle switch" to reduce the power when the iron is in the holder.

Can we see a photo of your rig? Did you use a diode to drop the power when idle?

Behold the kluge....
this takes advantage of the holder spring bending when the iron is inserted. Adjustable linkage for fine-tuning the on/off action. The diode is buried in the wiring / shrink-fit.
The blue controller is for my Weller WTCPT.
This is all going to go on a new base someday.
Attachment:
ungar_idle.jpg
ungar_idle.jpg [ 66.44 KiB | Viewed 6480 times ]

Attachment:
ungar_idle-1.jpg
ungar_idle-1.jpg [ 49.17 KiB | Viewed 6480 times ]

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"Measure voltage, but THINK current." --anon.


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Wed 23, 2015 1:24 pm 
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Location: Littleton, MA
Thanks, Pix. That's an interesting approach to the switch linkage.

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Wed 23, 2015 3:07 pm 
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Location: S. Dartmouth MA 02748-1225 USA
Nortonics wrote:
targeteye wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79uD6XwBg5E
Cmon everyone, let's all practice our over/mispronunciation of the word solder...:roll:
I've learned to pronounce "soldering" with a silent "L". I might be wrong all these years. Yet, "soldier" I do pronounce the "L". Must be a New England thing... :wink:

That is a neat trick with a Weller, takes advantage of removing the resistance in the OEM tip. But the concept of "hot" is really not the the word but thermal mass is what is required to solder to a "groundplane" like a chassis. Without an extension of the tip the Weller can deliver more "wattage" but the thermal mass in the tip is the same. Note that there still is a certain contact time and fussing about to get the solder to flow and an open spot on the chassis was chosen that has no brackets or other heat sinking parts hard fastened to the chassis.

Sanding cadmium plated steel and caring more about an accidental injection of flux is a bit disconcerting...

wiscojim wrote:
There's nothing quite like having a good old "American Beauty" for chassis soldering.
WOO HOO! That and the Vulcan 300 watts and nearly 4#...

Chas

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Wed 23, 2015 3:14 pm 
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Location: Grand Chute, Wisconsin
Chas wrote:
I've learned to pronounce "soldering" with a silent "L". I might be wrong all these years. Yet, "soldier" I do pronounce the "L". Must be a New England thing...


Not likely a New England thing. This video was the first time in my entire life I've heard the "L" pronounced, and I've been using solder for more than 40 years. Even in the many hundreds of online TV and radio restoration videos I've watched on line from throughout the U.S. and the entire world, I have never heard the "L" pronounced.

Yet every time he said it in the video it just seemed like it was as difficult for him to pronounce it that way as it was for me to hear it.

.


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Wed 23, 2015 5:08 pm 
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Even this little kid figured out there are two ways to pronounce it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_yD2wEU2HM

Whats that thing about dogs and tricks? :)

Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Thu 24, 2015 1:47 am 
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Location: Clinton Twp. Mi.
If i am doing any chassis ground soldering i just pull out my big Weller. 250 watts . Never had any problems and no need to make a " special tip ".
Stan


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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Thu 24, 2015 3:49 am 
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it was informative and I believe he meant well but all I could think of while watching it was:

Phil Hartman

http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/ ... -guy/n9800

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Mon 28, 2015 10:22 pm 
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Location: Thornhill, Ontario, Canada
I haven't tried the short, 14 gauge wire trick yet, but I plan to. I have two Weller 140 watt guns and have noticed that with a lot of continuous use (factory bits) the bodies get very hot (cheap, internal transformers?!), so I am wondering how hot the modified guns get and how quickly.
I also want to design regular size "wire bits" from 12 or 14 gauge Cu wire as replacement Weller bits fail too soon (always at the bottom near the end) and cost far too much.
Cheers,
Roger

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 Post subject: Re: Soldering Iron Mod for Chassis Soldering
PostPosted: Dec Thu 31, 2015 3:28 am 
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That was a great tutorial!

I just went to our local consignment shop and picked up a Weller 8250A for $10.
Took it home then noticed the cord spring wasn't inside at all. I removed the casing and lo and behold I found two insulated spade lugs with two wires each crimped, and the spade portions cut off. There was one of them wraped with electrical tape. The other exposed. The connectors on the switch were covered with globs of solder. I have already repaired the wire connections with wire-nuts. (Will go back and solder the wires and switch properly, later.) I need to get two light bulbs, but thinking about LEDS instead.

I decided to go with using brass wire rather than copper. Will see how that works. Right now the present tip has a notch in the tip about half way through. I will tin the brass wire before installing.

I had to clean the threads, and holes, that took some ammonia , then q-tips and about 1/2 hour of work. Then I removed all of the dust, wow! I used the brush from my electric razor, cough, cough!

It does heat up, but a new tip is in store for it, very shortly.
Edit-just tried the new brass rod and it works, but it's too hard to bend, so I guess it's copper wire after this or Weller tips!

I did read a booklet on Weller soldering. It states that it has a duty cycle designed for 1 minute on, and 4 minutes off.

http://www.stevenjohnson.com/soldering/ ... ps-40s.pdf

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