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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 2:44 pm 
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Posts: 101
Location: Wasilla Alaska
fifties wrote:
walz wrote:
Maybe someone can help me with another issue.

I'm looking at a resistor or capacitor on the osc. coil it is unique as its brown like a turd, and the two ends that solder into the chassis have a wire wrapping around each wire from the factory. The brown turd looks like a wax exterior without markings.

Its soldered to one of the end lugs of the osc. coil, not the middle. The other end is soldered to the 1L6.

I believe that could be a wax capacitor, with a "coil" wound around it. Look on the print to verify the components connected to the osc coil.

Philco was notorious for doing that, but I don't remember if it was in the osc stage of their sets. The coil was to prevent reception of long wave, IIRC. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will correct that if it's mistaken, but removing the coil had no effect on reception.

You might swap in a new capacitor sans coil and see if there's any change in reception.


I think that is it, a capacitor, wax, with a coil. Now is it something that needs replacing? In restoring the radio I don't want to change something if it effects the reception.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 2:56 pm 
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pixellany wrote:
walz wrote:

Its soldered to one of the end lugs of the osc. coil, not the middle. The other end is soldered to the 1L6.

Which pin? As stated by fifties, we need to find it on the schematic.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 4:45 pm 
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:oops: Apologize to everyone, I'm a novice trying to not blow up my project, I'm removing any fire causing issues, and I'm really trying not to be a pest or a nuance. :oops:

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Jan Mon 05, 2015 6:38 pm
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Location: Wasilla Alaska
On the up side, I've learned quite a bit about these old dinosaurs, they are great to work on, figure out, it keeps my mind going strong.

:shock: I just am kinda worried about the shock hazard, trying to eliminate everything that can be a potential risk. :shock:

:idea: I have a dim bulb tester built. :idea:

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 5:03 pm 
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walz wrote:
On the up side, I've learned quite a bit about these old dinosaurs, they are great to work on, figure out, it keeps my mind going strong.

:shock: I just am kinda worried about the shock hazard, trying to eliminate everything that can be a potential risk. :shock:

:idea: I have a dim bulb tester built. :idea:


If you restore these sets according to the schematic (schematic being correct 99.99% of the time), and then don't do anything stupid, like touch the chassis while standing barefoot on a damp concrete floor ....

.......... the set will be more than safe.

Your ancestors survived using these sets and produced you, so .... how much safer do you need to be?


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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 5:57 pm 
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Location: Annapolis, MD
A dim-bulb tester does nothing for safety.

You can't put a 3-wire cord on an AC/DC radio.

Polarized plugs are false safety---reasons already stated.

leave it original---for safety, use it with a GFCI.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 6:48 pm 
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Location: Wasilla Alaska
Great ideas.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 8:28 pm 
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Location: SoCal, 91387
walz wrote:
fifties wrote:
walz wrote:
Maybe someone can help me with another issue.

I'm looking at a resistor or capacitor on the osc. coil it is unique as its brown like a turd, and the two ends that solder into the chassis have a wire wrapping around each wire from the factory. The brown turd looks like a wax exterior without markings.

Its soldered to one of the end lugs of the osc. coil, not the middle. The other end is soldered to the 1L6.

I believe that could be a wax capacitor, with a "coil" wound around it. Look on the print to verify the components connected to the osc coil.

Philco was notorious for doing that, but I don't remember if it was in the osc stage of their sets. The coil was to prevent reception of long wave, IIRC. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will correct that if it's mistaken, but removing the coil had no effect on reception.

You might swap in a new capacitor sans coil and see if there's any change in reception.


I think that is it, a capacitor, wax, with a coil. Now is it something that needs replacing? In restoring the radio I don't want to change something if it effects the reception.


SOP is to replace all but mica capacitors. I would remove the cap/coil combination in such a way that it can be re-installed if necessary, although I highly doubt that will occur, and replace it with another of the same value, as determined by what's printed on it, or the schematic. The osc will either work or it won't, so you'll know right away.

walz wrote:
On the up side, I've learned quite a bit about these old dinosaurs, they are great to work on, figure out, it keeps my mind going strong.

:shock: I just am kinda worried about the shock hazard, trying to eliminate everything that can be a potential risk. :shock:

:idea: I have a dim bulb tester built. :idea:

I'm afraid the shock/electrocution realm gets exaggerated on this board. First of all, the set should always be unplugged when working on it's underbelly. Once it's in it's cabinet and there are no exposed metal parts, such as the setscrew on the knobs, & a fiberboard back is in place, the shock hazard drops to nil. When working on the set with the chassis upright and powered on, such as to adjust IF and RF points, always keep one hand in your lap.

An ISO is a good thing to employ between the set under test and the AC line. A dim bulb tester would only be used to verify that there are no shorts; it doesn't offer any sort of shock protection.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Fri 25, 2019 10:14 pm 
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Joined: Jan Mon 05, 2015 6:38 pm
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Location: Wasilla Alaska
"I'm afraid the shock/electrocution realm gets exaggerated on this board. First of all, the set should always be unplugged when working on it's underbelly. Once it's in it's cabinet and there are no exposed metal parts, such as the setscrew on the knobs, & a fiberboard back is in place, the shock hazard drops to nil. When working on the set with the chassis upright and powered on, such as to adjust IF and RF points, always keep one hand in your lap.

An ISO is a good thing to employ between the set under test and the AC line. A dim bulb tester would only be used to verify that there are no shorts; it doesn't offer any sort of shock protection."


Awesome, that makes perfect sense. I'm keeping all of this information at hand so I can have a reliable radio, the dim bulb tester will assist me in determining if everything is OK. I've been really careful about putting covers on all of the capacitor wires, checking for any issues. LOL

Kinda like using a rubber for protection. LOL

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Mon 28, 2019 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Jan Mon 05, 2015 6:38 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Wasilla Alaska
I have the Ed Morris replacement guide and it's making better seance the more I read on the forum.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Jan Mon 05, 2015 6:38 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Well, I've updated the selenium rectifier as per Ed Morris.

I replaced the:
130 ohm sand resistor with a new one
the Selenium Rectifier went in the trash
the resistor riveted to the chassis was removed, And two 5watts 1k sand resisters were installed
I installed a terminal strip with the 1N4007, 10 ohm dropping resistor

So basically I went off Ed Morris drawing.

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Another Young Frankenstein!


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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 8:32 pm 
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The dropping resistor should be around 50 ohms @ 5 or 10 watts. 10 ohms may not be enough to get the 1L6 filament voltage in the 1.4 - 1.5 volt range.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 9:36 pm 
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Location: Wasilla Alaska
Ed Morris wrote:
The dropping resistor should be around 50 ohms @ 5 or 10 watts. 10 ohms may not be enough to get the 1L6 filament voltage in the 1.4 - 1.5 volt range.


Your Ed Morris, hello.

I'm going to test the 1L6 just like you wrote. I am just a happy camper since I got a hold of your reading material, I like tinkering and learning about things. :D :D

I'm a novice, just learning on some older chassis, if it works COOL! If it doesn't work, I'll be tinkering with it again, a great enjoyment for me having a puzzle to figure out.. :wink:

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Another Young Frankenstein!


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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Jan Mon 05, 2015 6:38 pm
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Location: Wasilla Alaska
I have a Bally slot machine from 1979, 100% original, 100% USA, a electrical mechanical model no computers. When I got that it was a POS. After I rebuilt from the ground up restoring it per the factory no spliced wires, no cut wires a perfect wiring as per factory, and everything the factory had on it, I sourced all of the missing parts, replaced glass, and now its worth mega bucks. :D

The other thing I'm proud of is my 1990 jukebox, Made in the USA 100%. I found it in a barn, a Rowe CD-100 first one CD model, after a extensive overall, like the slot machine, it's a great jukebox. The first jukeboxes CD-100 were plagued with problems. What I did was examine the newer models CD-100a through the end and since the newer electronics are updated the CD-100 received all updated electronics ferreting out the problems with the this early CD-100. Better yet they interface without any problems. :D

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 10:05 pm 
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If you can restore slot machines and juke boxes, a G500 should be child’s play :D

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 11:07 pm 
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Pull the 1L6 and use a 1R5 for testing the filament voltage! You really don't want to accidentally fry a 1L6. :shock:


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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Jan Mon 05, 2015 6:38 pm
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Location: Wasilla Alaska
Ed Morris wrote:
If you can restore slot machines and juke boxes, a G500 should be child’s play :D


I'm doing my best. :D

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Another Young Frankenstein!


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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Jan Mon 05, 2015 6:38 pm
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Location: Wasilla Alaska
I don't want to blow up tubes.

My father-in-law who passed away has/had a hundred "new in the box" radio tubes that I inherited. I brought them from San Diego when I moved to Wasilla Alaska. I've found some tubes that will work in the transatlantic radio. I also have a complete set of tubes from the chassis I practiced on.


I also brought all of his testing equipment with me, I don't even know how some of them work. I'm able to use the tube testers, some meters.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Jan Thu 31, 2019 11:42 pm 
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Attachment:
SRreplace.jpg
SRreplace.jpg [ 115.64 KiB | Viewed 122 times ]


You can use alligator clip leads to temporarily switch out the dropping resistors until you get the right resistance value, then permanently solder in the resistor.

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 Post subject: Re: selenium rectifier and shock hazard
PostPosted: Feb Fri 01, 2019 12:22 am 
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Joined: Jan Mon 05, 2015 6:38 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Ed Morris wrote:
Attachment:
SRreplace.jpg


You can use alligator clip leads to temporarily switch out the dropping resistors until you get the right resistance value, then permanently solder in the resistor.



That makes it clearer. :idea:

Ive got a lot of alligator clips, roach clips, from my father-in-law. :mrgreen:

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Another Young Frankenstein!


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