Not sure if this has been shared here if so my apologies. I found this product that may be helpful to someone.
https://msquaredcircuits.com/product/multicap-pcb-1/

I am definitely purchasing a few to test out as it sure would make multicap replacement a breeze and more appealing to the eyes.

Multicap can capacitors are very simple to do. Remove the cover, remove the guts, drill three or four holes for the new capacitor leads, run the leads through the holes and solder to the existing lugs. No need to remove the can or any original wiring.

DM

I find it's usually easier to work on restuffing a can if it's out of the chassis. Removing the can's shell usually means uncrimping it from its base or using something like a pipe cutter to cut it open. Both are difficult to do in-chassis due to restricted working space.

The PCB thing sure is easier but it looks like, well, poop. It lacks aesthetics. Maybe an empty cap can could be glued over it to restore some of the original appearance??

You get 2 "panels" for $10+shipping, out of stock.

I fully concur, it's not as easy as it looks and the can must be usually removed from the chassis to proceed. Then, after opening and re-stuffing it you must find a way to to close the can in a non-visible way (using glue, aluminium can't be soldered) and the final appearance will be only so-so at best.

The product offered above is only a half way solution, it would be perfect if it was offered with a matching empty aluminium can (available in the 3 most used sizes: short, standard and tall versions) to help preserve the original appearance. Since there are so many different variations and combinations (voltages and capacitance) of multi-sections can type electrolytic caps someone should produce empty cans (with matching bottom wafers) ready to be stuffed by the user, I think there would be an appreciable market for such a (easy to manufacture) product. (A Big Hello to our chinese friends ! Did you read this ?)

A piece of perf board would be just as good.

I can see this appealing to those who are working on audio gear and amps or other gear. I like to DIY too but that looks more professional than typical perf board work. There is room for this in the electronics hobby.

Examine the picture carefully: it looks MUCH better than a piece of perfoard (you'll need to cut, file and shape), is made of thicker material, has a ready made PCB to solder the (radial) caps (no wiring needed) , is fitted with solder tags and all the mounting holes (including ground) properly spaced likle the original. Sure you can make one yourself but it will take you a lot of time for a (much) less professional final appearance.
At 5$/board it's not really cheap but the product must have been a success since it's already sold out (currently "out of stock").

They also have the larger size that holds 4 capacitors.

I have yet to see someone post a picture of a restuffed can that looks original except for the ones with an insulating sleeve around it.. All of them look like they have been cut open one way or another. The only way I can think of to do a visually correct restuff is to uncrimp the bottom, replace the capacitors, and then recrimp. That sounds rather difficult to do neatly.

Some people have been using a piece of HVAC type aluminum tape to reattach the can after cutting it open to restuff, by wrapping a full turn around the can. This works best if you leave an inch or so at the base when cutting it open, so the tape has something substantial to adhere to.

I have done that. It's not easy. Blood sacrifices may be required of your fingers.

One thing I notice about the boards: they're designed to replace a multi-cap in which all the caps share a common ground & its labeled for all the caps to be neg ground. Of course, not all caps are that way. And I also see that the solder tabs are not part of the kit, as I initially thought they were. I think it would be a more versatile design if they skipped the traces & we soldered the pads/tabs up however we wanted.

A dremel tool cuts the can very easily, no need to remove the can and uncrimp it.

DM

I'd just as soon leave a clue to the next owner that I restuffed the can. I don't mind the epoxy glue joint. It is visible, but it's so much easier to restuff caps by cutting off the can while it is still in place that I'm willing to give a bit on the cosmetics. It still beats a bunch of caps hanging in space, or on a perf board.

Lately, I've been opening can-types (even some cardboard sleeved axial electrolytics) using a tubing cutter. The cut is made right where there's usually a shoulder (see pic). It's a bit fiddly because not all the rollers are in contact but with light cutting pressure you can open a can pretty cleanly with a neatly straight edge. If you roll the lower section's lip a little & smooth out the upper can's edge, the upper can will insert inside the rim of the base. The line between parts is (I think) easier to hide right where there's a transition. If the can mounts with a ring instead of twist-locks, so much the better for hiding the repair.

Yes, cutting at the top of the flange makes for a neat job. Here is a in process and after restuffing photo

Mondial,

Very nice work!

These PC boards were brought up on several of the Facebook groups yesterday. One of the guys making them was stomping them over there. The audio guys were seemingly all giving positive feedback because I guess they don't worry about original looks, but rather performance. They fill a niche market, but I am a restuffer for the most part.


I think that is the best job I have seen Mondial.

Someone recently stated here that they can see restuffed electrolytics a mile a way, blah, blah, blah....I usually have a visible line of gray JB weld around the bottom of mine, and I assure you that you really have to look close to realize they are restuffed. It still looks FAR better than having electrolytics crammed in under the chassis and all the original cans bypassed.

Thanks for the complements! I have tried various methods to cut the can at the flange base, but the best method I have found is to use a fine tooth saw to cut around the can. I used a jewelers saw to cut the ones shown in the photo.

The advantage over using a sharp knife or pipe cutter is that it causes less distortion to the can edges. This allows you to insert the top of the can inside the flange base as hwhall described above. If you are careful, you can get a tight push fit which requires little or no cement to secure.

Seems to me these PCBs really only work for cans that are mounted on phenolic insulating wafers. How would they replace a twist-loc?

A twist-loc differs primarily from those PCs by having the body of the cap mechanically grounded to a chassis. All the PC user has to do is provide a short pigtail from the PC's common to a chassis ground such as at one of the screws that mount the PC to the chassis.