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 Post subject: Any substitute(s) for WD11
PostPosted: Aug Tue 15, 2006 3:19 am 
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Location: Kenosha, Wisconsin
I'm a newbie and wet behind the ears. I recently bought a Radiola III, not realizing it requires two WD11's (most recently priced at 178.00 each at Tubes 'n More). Does anyone know of plausible substitutes that don't require new bases?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Deb.

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Debra A. Johnson
524 - 74th Street
Kenosha, WI 53143


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 15, 2006 3:31 am 
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Hi Deb

You can buy substitutes from Bill Turner.

http://www.dialcover.com/tubes.html

Could also try building your own using a subminiature tube.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 15, 2006 4:33 am 
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The WD-11 base is unique, therefore any substitute will require an adapter or will need to be mounted on a fabricated base.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 15, 2006 2:57 pm 
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Just got a postcard in the mail the other day from George Fathauer, he's got the 864 which is electrically identical to the WD11, together with the needed adapter now available. Those or Bill Turner's reproductions would be a good choice.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 15, 2006 4:07 pm 
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Hi

You can make a WD11 base using a PVC end cap. Drill holes to the WD11 pattern and insert short pieces of copper tubing, 1/8" small pins & 3/16" large. Copper tubing is available at hardware stores, used for refrigerator ice makers. You can even buy brass tubing from a hobby shop. Epoxy pins in place. This will strengthen the base. Spray paint black.

Others have mentioned using a standard base and changing pins. Believe tubing is available which slides over a standard small pin making it 3/16".

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Tue 15, 2006 9:26 pm 
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Was it the 864 that had very similar characteristics to the WD-11? I seem to remember seeing some rebased ones out there to make it a direct substitute but don't remember where now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Wed 16, 2006 1:00 am 
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Antique Electronic Supply used to offer an adapter that would allow the use of a 3D6/1299 UHF pentode, but they don't seem to sell that particular adapter any more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Wed 16, 2006 3:54 am 
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The 864 is the same as the WD-11 except for the base and a somewhat higher Gm. Unfortunately, they have gotten very expensive also.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Wed 16, 2006 4:12 pm 
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Hi

Those 3D6 to WD11 bases were made by James Fred. I had special ones made where the metal part of the locktal tube was hidden inside the base. Jim no longer makes bases. At the time 3D6's had little demand and were selling at $2. After these adapters were available price went way up. I also liked 3D6 since the tube is silvered on top and inside elements can't be seen.

3Q5, 1A5, 1C5, 1T5, 1G4, 1LE3 and many other tubes can also be used with adapters for WD11. Two of my substitutes are on the 2003 AES catalog, middle of front cover, blue & orange backgrounds.

864 has just about the same ratings as WD11. As mentioned, it's also expensive and looks different inside.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 17, 2006 3:37 am 
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Another sub is the 5676/CK5676 subminiature tube (pencil tube):

http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/138/5/5676.pdf

You still need a WD11 base and envelope (possibly a 1" dia. test tube?).

John

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 17, 2006 4:33 am 
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John mentioned the best one, 5676. It's a 4 wire subminiature tube with solderable leads.

A 1" test tube can be used for glass cover. The test tube can be cut to the correct height.

Inside can be silvered to hide the 5676. We used silvering process for mirrors but Krylon has a spray paint that should work.

Our tubes are on AES 2003 catalog, 2 tubes in blue background.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Aug Thu 17, 2006 5:27 am 
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Hi Debra,

Ken did a page about making the adapters with measurements and diagrams:
http://www.antiquewireless.org/otb/wd-11.htm

Ths thread spoke of the subs also, with links to some pictures of the finished product in our gallery.
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtop ... 7b3ff8cd7b
I would be happy to have a couple of duds for my Radiola III for display, but even duds are hard to find.

What about a solid state replacement installed the 'test tube' style housing? I remember they had "wafers" you could place between the tube and socket for some tubes, and would thing the WD-11's would be an easy conversion.

Good luck,
Gary.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jan Fri 28, 2011 7:50 pm 
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I'm curious if anyone know how the 3D6 was wired to the four pins that the WD-11 used.
What filament voltage would we set to use this setup?
Thanks,
-Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jan Sat 29, 2011 12:47 am 
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Steve

Parallel two sections of filament on the 3D6. Current is almost as much (.22 amps) as a WD11 (.25 amps) so filament volume control operates properly.

Connect pin #2 and #3, plate and screen, together and use as plate of the WD11. Grid #1 remains the same.

A 3D6 wired this way operates off 1.4 volts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jan Sat 29, 2011 3:02 am 
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A while back I got a really nice Radiola III and decided to splurge on a set of 864s. I got the two tubes plus bases on ebay at a reasonable cost. Around $60 IIRC?.

They worked like a champ. No goofiness.

You can save a few coins with other alternatives but if you're not familiar knowing what to expect from the R III the rebased 864s are hard to beat.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jan Sat 29, 2011 4:17 am 
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Here's a nice discussion of WD-11 subs:

http://www.antiquewireless.org/otb/wd-11.htm

The 3D6 is mentioned there.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jan Sat 29, 2011 6:15 am 
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I initially used 3D6 because the filament was right, price only a couple dollars and top was silvered so it didn't look like a modern tube.

Later used 5676's hidden in a silvered test tube. Some of my WD11 subs are on the front of 2003 AES catalog.

Nothing wrong with 864's. Price is high and they still need rebasing. Internal structure is seen which doesn't look like a WD11 but spec is about the same.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jan Sat 29, 2011 1:54 pm 
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Norm Leal wrote:
I initially used 3D6 because the filament was right, price only a couple dollars and top was silvered so it didn't look like a modern tube.

Later used 5676's hidden in a silvered test tube. Some of my WD11 subs are on the front of 2003 AES catalog.

Nothing wrong with 864's. Price is high and they still need rebasing. Internal structure is seen which doesn't look like a WD11 but spec is about the same.


I have one that uses the 3D6's. I agree that they look really good.
I remember seeing your WD-11 subs on the catalog. I may still have that catalog at the office. I'll have to check.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jan Sat 29, 2011 6:59 pm 
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OK, so to recap...
I have a RCA Radiola III with 3D6's installed. This means that Pins 1 and 8 tied together and they get the + side of the 1.4 volt filament voltage. On the Radiola, this would be +A. The -A will be Pin 7 on the 3D6.
Now the Plate (pin 2) and Grid 2 (pin 3) are also tied together. They will go to the +B supply. Grid 1 will get the - voltage from the C supply. Is is correct?
Check me and tell me if I have this right.
For the detector, I should be able to use +45 volts. For the amplifier, I should be able to use +90 volts with -4.5 volts on the grid.
Also for the Amp, is there any reason I can't use +135 volts for the plate and -4.5 volts for the grid?
Also, is the +45 volts for the detector correct?
Thanks for the help.
-Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Jan Sat 29, 2011 9:06 pm 
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Steve

Sounds right as long as you connect to socket pins and not direct to B+ and C-. I am sure that's what you mean.

RCA suggests 20 volts for detector. I would keep this voltage low otherwise regen can be too much even at zero..

B+ to amp can be 135 volts with C being - 4 1/2. You will find this to be enough to drive a speaker on stronger stations.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByMode ... 040349.pdf

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