What size table saw blade should I buy to cut very thin birch (1/4-inch thick)? I made a recipe box for my wife using my 40 tooth blade and it slivered the edges so of course I covered the edge with trim. But now I need to make another kitchen box and i want to match the woods so I was going to use the same type of wood. I know the more teeth a blade has the finer and smoother the cut but I saw on the internet someone stating that you can go too far with the number of teeth. While an 80 tooth blade seems recommended for paneling (which is pretty much what this birch wood that I am using is), wouldn't a 200 tooth blade be even better? Or is that truly just for plywood?

60 tooth at a minimum. When I cut thin stock I put tape on either side of the cut to help stop splintering.

What he said. And a slow feed speed.

I often cut double sided laminate which is very prone to chipping. I use a 10 inch 80 tooth double sided laminate blade. They don't come cheap (around $100) for a real good one, there are cheaper ones (around $30). https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Double-Laminate-Melamine-LU97R010/dp/B00006XMTZ.
Also don't forget, cut the side that will be be visible face up when using a table saw!

Ed

Thanks Ed, N2LXM and Dennis-all real helpful. Am looking forward to seeing
how a toothier blade does because the 40 tooth blade I used on the first
box was pretty splintery.

The real key to cutting without splintering is to use a zero clearance insert - and not a worn out one either.

I can make perfect cuts with a 48 tooth Forrest Woodworker II in birch.

Another way to do clean cuts is to cut slightly oversize, then finish on a router table

I like using the zero clearance throat plates. I usually just make my own. 80 tooth blade at a minimum. Its going to cut slowly but give you a nice edge. Also, have the blade just high enough to clear the top of the cut plus a scoche. I set the height of the blade so that just half of the carbide teeth protrude above the cut.

Depending upon how much you have to cut, you could always try scoring the wood with a knife, and then use a hand saw to do the cut. The 1/4 inch plywood will cut pretty fast. At least try a test cut; could save you from spending the $$$ on a new blade (unless, of course, you want the new blade).

Any chance you could sandwich the good stock between some scrap paneling?
Henry

I use 60 tooth blades for most cross cuts and 24 to 40 for rip cuts.

The best answer is a zero clearance insert and a sharp blade. Another factor is the fence/blade alignment, best results will be with both set at Zero front to back offset from the miter slot.

Its possible to stop splintering when hand cutting by using masking tape on the cut. It should also work with a table saw.