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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Sun 22, 2015 10:34 pm 
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The Kill-A-Watt is something that I use as well. It is available from many sources, not the least of which is Home Depot. Mine won't give an indication until I reach about 65 volts but that is not a problem.

Another tactic that one could use is to clip the capacitor near the body, leaving a tail that so that you KNOW for sure where it was connected. Another tactic is to use an alligator clip (crocodile in Australia!) connected to the location of where the capacitor was connected. It serves as a marker.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Sun 22, 2015 11:04 pm 
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This seems like a nice Variac, when I'm ready to get one. I've stashed it on my Amazon wish list in the mean time.
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-500va-Output/dp/B006NGI2RS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1424639106&sr=8-4&keywords=variac

On the Kill A Watt, any suggestions? The ones on Amazon seem geared toward measuring/saving household energy, not particularly anything to do with high-voltage electronic testing.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 1:40 am 
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I ALWAYS use an alligator style jumper to mark the removal of a cap.

I mark one end with a "-" to indicate negative.

I replace one at a time. Don't rush it. 8)

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 4:54 am 
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Here is what Lee means by "True RMS". It's an informative commercial for their product but it says it all in layman's terms.

Just remember the people who authored Sams and Rider's and Beitman's and all of the manufacturers' original factory service manuals did not have such meters, back in our timeframe of interest. Using a true RMS meter and expecting to match the service manual readings would be naïve. Using a period-correct VTVM is best for all cases, using a modern cheap analog VOM is adequate for most cases. I've owned the same Micronta Radio Shack meter since about 1975 and it still works perfectly. A good friend recently gave me a vintage RCA WV-98C Senior VoltOhmyst VTVM from the relevant era for our purposes, which is an excellent device for measuring tube-grid and other very-low-current voltages where the Radio Shack meter would give erroneous readings due to the meter loading down the circuit.

Noting of course that complex waveforms are usually measured with an oscilloscope rather than a multimeter. The service manuals that give waveform data are the most useful, and understanding and using a 'scope is valuable if you want to learn how a TV really works, and maybe someday for designing your own tube circuits, but is for the most part overkill for vintage TV restoring. A scope, for example, will show you if your horizontal sawtooth is straight, but if everything else is working right, so will the TV's picture tube. Most waveform errors will show up on the screen or in the sound, so a scope may not be necessary for general vintage TV work.

Elite TV restoring involves alignment of all the RF and IF transformer trimmers and associated circuits. Here a scope becomes useful. But that's advanced study, to worry about much later. And of course color TV. But for now, enjoy the Emerson radio and work your way up if the hobby grabs you. If not, you won't want to sink a lot of money into tools you won't use.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 5:13 am 
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sdyer wrote:
On the Kill A Watt, any suggestions? The ones on Amazon seem geared toward measuring/saving household energy, not particularly anything to do with high-voltage electronic testing.


If your TV is miswired in some way it will draw significantly more or less current than specified on the back of the set or in the service documents. The Kill-A-Watt will tell you how much current the TV as a whole is drawing from the house mains. If the current draw is too low, then some portion of the set may be dead. It is usually safe to leave it plugged in and troubleshoot. If the draw is too high, some portion of the set is likely shorted. Smoke and fire will often ensue shortly thereafter, so it is not safe to leave it plugged in to troubleshoot. Knowing how much the set draws as a whole is a good "warm fuzzy" check of the general overall health and well being of your restoration. A bit like knowing if you have a fever or not. Doesn't tell you what's wrong, just tells you something isn't right. I have one of those too, use it on occasion.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 7:40 am 
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sdyer-

Here is a 3-amp autotransformer for less than half the price of the one on Amazon:

http://www.parts-express.com/parts-expr ... c--120-840

And, here is the basic Kill-A-Watt unit that I have, on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electric ... 00009MDBU/

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 1:14 pm 
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ChrisW6ATV wrote:
And, here is the basic Kill-A-Watt unit that I have, on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electric ... 00009MDBU/


Anything stopping me, or anyone here, from plugging the Kill-A-Watt into my 5A Variac and using it as an Ammeter? 8)

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 1:59 pm 
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Lee, that is essentially what I do. Isolation transformer, variac and the Kill-A-Watt.

When I restored a Motorola VT71, I watched the ammeter function. When the voltage was 117VAC, the current flow indicated was right where the Sams said it should be, I think around .95 amps. It told me that things at this point were OK. Just another good tool.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 2:07 pm 
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I just checked. The model that I have is the 4460. I didn't see what the difference was between the 4400 and 4460 with the 4460 costing more.

Update, the website shows that the 4400 is the basic and the 4460 adds features like power usage calculations. So, for what we need, the first generation 4400 would be quite adequate.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 2:23 pm 
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Thanks guys. I ordered the 4400 Kill A Watt - about $19 from Amazon.

On the Variac, the one Chris shows is a 3A model for $55, at Parts Express and same price at Amazon. http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-3a-variac-variable-ac-power-transformer-0-130-vac--120-840
The one I wish-listed on Amazon is a 5A model. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NGI2RS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=104GXAHVACVYL&coliid=I1ALISNOFLI4K8

I was thinking that if the TV draws lots of current, especially when turned on, I might need the extra horsepower. Any thoughts? Or is the 3A model adequate? Also, should I just decide to get the higher end model (I often like having more than "enough"), is there any downside, other than the additional cost?


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 7:37 pm 
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sdyer wrote:
...I was thinking that if the TV draws lots of current, especially when turned on, I might need the extra horsepower. Any thoughts? Or is the 3A model adequate? Also, should I just decide to get the higher end model (I often like having more than "enough"), is there any downside, other than the additional cost?


Nah. Bigger is cooler.

Typically you turn the set on first and then bring up the variac, so the power-on surge isn't an issue. The 3A is adequate but the bigger one is adequate too. Big giant variac on the workbench looks nicely '50s Sci-Fi, and gives your bench more gravitas in the eyes of layman onlookers. If money isn't an issue, buy the better one just for show.

This hobby isn't fun unless you have fun with it.


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Mon 23, 2015 9:32 pm 
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M3-SRT8 wrote:
Anything stopping me, or anyone here, from plugging the Kill-A-Watt into my 5A Variac and using it as an Ammeter? 8)

That is exactly what I do, except that I put it on the input side of the transformer, since it my not operate well at low AC voltages.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Tue 24, 2015 1:11 am 
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So, it's Variac into the wall outlet, P4400 into the Variac, chassis being restored plugged into the P4400.

Right? 8)

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Tue 24, 2015 1:30 am 
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ChrisW6ATV wrote:
M3-SRT8 wrote:
Anything stopping me, or anyone here, from plugging the Kill-A-Watt into my 5A Variac and using it as an Ammeter? 8)

That is exactly what I do, except that I put it on the input side of the transformer, since it my not operate well at low AC voltages.


If I recall, the Kill-A-Watt will not start indicating until you reach about 65 volts. But that may not be a problem though.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Tue 24, 2015 2:44 am 
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M3-SRT8 wrote:
So, it's Variac into the wall outlet, P4400 into the Variac, chassis being restored plugged into the P4400.

Right? 8)

ChrisW6ATV is suggesting plug the P4400 into the wall outlet and plug the Variac into the P4400. Of course then you are not measuring the current drawn by the set unless the Variac is set to output the same voltage as your AC line has.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Tue 24, 2015 6:53 am 
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As Don said, the Kill-A-Watt probably does not work right at low voltages, so that is why I put mine on the always-120V side of the Variac. I do not remember my Variac using much current without a load connected, but if it does, I think you could simply subtract that from the total to see what the TV or radio was using.

Or... Maybe I did put my Kill-A-Watt on the variable side. It has been a while since I set things up here. At under 65 volts, most devices probably will not draw a lot of current anyway. Once it displays the voltage (at 65 volts or higher), then switch to current. If it already reads 3 amps, shut everything off. :) That might be how I did it.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Feb Wed 25, 2015 4:16 am 
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ChrisW6ATV wrote:
As Don said, the Kill-A-Watt probably does not work right at low voltages, so that is why I put mine on the always-120V side of the Variac. I do not remember my Variac using much current without a load connected, but if it does, I think you could simply subtract that from the total to see what the TV or radio was using.

Or... Maybe I did put my Kill-A-Watt on the variable side. It has been a while since I set things up here. At under 65 volts, most devices probably will not draw a lot of current anyway. Once it displays the voltage (at 65 volts or higher), then switch to current. If it already reads 3 amps, shut everything off. :) That might be how I did it.


About the reason I said the current measurements could be off. Consider the case where the Variac is set to output half of the line voltage. In that case a 2 amp draw at the half line voltage will cause a 1 amp draw from the line. Of course you can take this into account if you remember to.

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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Mar Mon 09, 2015 12:43 am 
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I've been working on my radio, and it's going well. Today I powered it up and it worked just fine. See the details at http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=271064&p=2264307#p2264307

On the TV, I did a little bit of work today:

Attachment:
File comment: I took the high voltage cage off.
Removed the Cage.jpg
Removed the Cage.jpg [ 66.79 KiB | Viewed 3161 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: With the cage off I can clean all the muck off in there.
More crusty crud.jpg
More crusty crud.jpg [ 61.32 KiB | Viewed 3161 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: I went to remove the connector on the top of this tube, and it broke off, as it was corroded.
Broken Tube.jpg
Broken Tube.jpg [ 50.86 KiB | Viewed 3161 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: A while back I tipped the chassis up to get underneath, and it broke one of the power pins. I'm trying epoxy to see if that will hold it. Good idea? Bad idea? I suppose I could try solder if this doesn't work out. How does one usually repair this sort of thing?
Pin Epoxy.jpg
Pin Epoxy.jpg [ 53.61 KiB | Viewed 3161 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: Does anyone know what this is?
What is this.jpg
What is this.jpg [ 41.39 KiB | Viewed 3161 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Mar Mon 09, 2015 1:28 am 
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With care, you might be able to re-solder the broken connector on the top of that tube. You don't want to put too much heat on the glass, or it may crack. You could also try to reattach it with conductive silver-filled epoxy, but that is not a super-expensive tube, so a new one would cost less than the expensive epoxy. Before attempting to repair the tube, I'd make sure it's not a dud, of course.

The black rubbery cup with a connector inside supplies high voltage to the CRT. It plugs into a recess for the 2nd anode in the bell of the picture tube.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html


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 Post subject: Re: Philco 48-1000 Complete - how to restore?
PostPosted: Mar Mon 09, 2015 4:11 am 
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That tube runs hot enough to melt solder. SOP is to discard it. Moot point here as the tube appears to be cracked, and therefore full of air and no longer functional. Prices at hamfest or swap meet is around $3. Buy spares.

Some epoxy glues are conductive (JB Weld for example). Probably a bad idea. Most epoxy glues aren't heat tolerant either. Consider replacing instead. Ask around on classifieds for parts.

Glad you're digging in on the TV.


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