here is the Late Hallicrafters T54 in operation, ( not to confuse the T54 from an earlier thread )
its using the Weaker tube that I had Tested in the Earlier T54, nice and Bright
this one uses 6AU6 in the I.F and other stages where the Earlier one I posted uses octal 6HS7
I finished replacing the last of those HV Resistors in this chassis.
I also added a in-rush current limiter to the power switch ntc-47d and this helped with the 7JP4 Filament flare up at start.
the 7JP4 is the first inline on the filament string
this one does not have that annoying audio buzz at peak whites that others complain about, it also uses a different part number for the radio Detector Coil.
so I came to a conclusion that these sets could a good Sweep alignment, and none of my sweep marker generators handle the I.F Freq

Anyone ever had luck with Sweep alignments on these chassis's ? and what Equipment ?
none of mine will cover the i.f Freq

the Cabinet sucks but not like the other, I have to figure out a better way to sand down, the other was a killer

Just recapped one of those myself, as you well know.

I'm waiting for a balun connector to attach a DVD player as we speak.

Don't know how bright it is but it seems to be a bright enough raster.

We'll see...

I noticed your raster is canted to the left. I've tried to center the raster horizontally but the range on the control won't allow a full centering, Does yours have this problem, or haven't you centered it?

EICO 368 or 369 will do it. One marker at a time though. Connect a freq. counter to the marker generator.

No it centers just fine with all controls pretty much in their center
but I also Replaced all the Resistors in this circuit and a ton of others in other areas
I think its the camera angle and content playing off air that you see, and you would not see that anyways with the mask in place
I also am monitoring HV like the other one so I have marker lines on the front of the CRT to help track as I don't want to leave a HV prob connected all day
and Also I had 1 7JP4 that has some broken gun supports and that Tube would not center well at all, I tossed it but saved the socket
Terry

thank you
I kinda figured it has to be one marker at a time, but was not sure if any Sweep marker generators do multiple for this type of IF Freq


Terry

There could be stand alone marker generators that could output multiple frequencies that you could input to a sweeper. I think RCA had a way of doing alignment that used three or four of their boxes. One box was just a sweeper, another was the marker, another combined the signals, etc.

If you dig around on Videokarma there is a thread on using outboard equipment to convert a B&K rig like yours to 21MHz.

OK
I decided to run them side by side just for kicks and Grins- Fun
the T54 on the left has a GE GL-7JP4 Tad lower Cutoff on Sencore Cr-7000
the Late Model on the Right uses a RCA 7JP4 Weaker but with higher Cutoff than the above
no Retrace lines, the GE GL-7JP4 has always in my eyes to be a tad on the Blue side when tested in either


Fun
Enjoy !!

Cool.

Hey, Wiseguy,

When you were placed all the resistors in the sweep section did you use just old carbon ones?

I'm wondering if the new type of resistors don't have the same characteristics and can mess with the picture sweep, centering, focus, etc.

I don't have any problems with the Sweep/scan/Focus problems at all in either of the chassis
For the HV Divider I used Xicon Carbon Film 5% 1 Watt resistors from mouser, there is nothing really special about the old ones they used either, but I did check specs on these for the Voltage rating and they fit the Job from Mouser, I used the same for R77
also I don't think using metal Film in the HV divider area is a good idea, but I could be wrong, both types can have any body Color both types could be blue or tan I found

I also hand picked my 12SN7's for Balanced Triodes
below is my parts list from mouser

Terry

if you are having problems with Centering then if you look at the Schematic and you will see that the Horiz and Vert Centering controls are parallel except the Center pin on Each of the Centering controls which ties to one of the H CRT plates and the same for the V CRT plate, I would check your coupling Caps from the H amp Tube C80 and C81 for correct value or connections also check R77 and C82 and R88

Also sorry if my Replies seem blotch at times, I reply using my Cell phone then when I get home i edit my mistakes on my main computer
also Read this link about Resistor types and it clearly Explains about Carbon Film in HV Circuits Vs Metal types but not sure if it really applies to the 5KV these sets produce
anyways that's what i used and no problems , the original ones in the HV divider were carbon composition, and i used the Carbon film in any areas Related to Higher Voltages
in all other areas i used metal Film type, which are Great , others here may have different opinions , but it all works for me

http://www.resistorguide.com/carbon-film-resistor/

Terry

C80 and C81 are now .00047 15kV ASC tubulars. New.

C82 is a .1 630V tubular. New.

R77 and R88, 4.7 meg 1 watt resistors were both replaced with ones that are near spot on. I replaced all but one hi meg resistors in the sweep board. Tested close to spec.

I test all components for value and voltage before install.

Would swapping 12SN7 tubes help? I tested all the ones that are in there for leakage and emissions. EICO 667 tube tester.

I cleaned the Contrast Control by opening it up and swabbing DeOxit with a pipe cleaner. Eliminated some horizontal spiking and cleaned things up somewhat, but the picture has no depth of field or good focus or "punch."

Thanks

Another problem has cropped up, possibly related to the lack of resolution and focus to the set.

After playing for a few minutes, the video and audio signals disappear entirely, leaving only a raster. There are horizontal streaks and noise before it lets go.

Before you suggest "cold soldier joint," I already reflowed the pins from V-1 to V-12.

Turning it back on after a spell regains the AV signal.

Suggestions?

Another symptom. Reducing the Width to make a 4:3 picture introduces tearing at the top of the picture that cannot be dialed out by increasing Contrast as it can when at a wider setting.

Contrast looks best when fully clockwise, but the picture quality leaves much to be desired.

You know, it just dawned on me that I hijacked your thread.

My apologies.

Keep checking Resistors, is all I can say, you have too many problems it appears, when you loose video try wiggling tubes in the sockets I found cleaning alone did not solve intermits, but I had to squeeze and pinch loose pins on tube sockets

if you adjust width then you will have to readjust the H-hold to stop tearing or bending at the top of the picture
there is a circuit Discription in the Ryders manual that explains the inter-reaction between the width control and H-Hold in the T-54

these sets do not have all that great of a picture, but decent and not High Resolution not like compared to a Set with a 10BP4
think of this type a Set as oscilloscope with a Tuner if you get the idea, there is no astigmatism adjustment to work with focus in these sets, you have to focus and get best focus by looking at both vertical and Horizontal, if you focus just for a vertical line then any horizontal lines would look worse, the 7JP4 is a very simple CRT with no special focus elements or voltages
good luck

all of the Halli series I owned I never had to turn the Contrast fully CW but all were around 80% before over driving, contrast control is a Fine WW and I found they are noisy when turning no matter what you do, but if you look at what its controlling the Cathode of the 1st Video amp Tube then audio is taken from the plate of the Same tube and Via C55 to Audio I.F so if you have contrast set way too high you will also get noise in audio esp if you over drive you signal to antenna.
the tuner push button cluster is a whole different story which I am sure you will find out
Terry