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 Post subject: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 4:16 pm 
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I picked this from a lady who was raising money for transitioning her 90 year old father to a assisted living facility. It was the one she grew up watching. The crt has great emissions (900) and no shorts in my B&K 445. Needs a complete defunking. I also picked up a a Heathkit W4 AM and WA-P2 amongst 5 or 6 rafio parts chassis's.

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Andy


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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 5:09 pm 
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Location: Dallas, TX
What is that on the screen?
The surround is clean.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 5:30 pm 
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It looks too new for this, but does it have crap behind the implosion protection glass? Or did the seal break in between the internal implosion glass, and the tube? It looks like a cataract.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 5:44 pm 
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I remember when the first one of those came into the shop. I was surprised to see Zenith making a plastic cabinet set. Yours looks like it's pre UHF.


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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 5:55 pm 
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I'm not sure what that is but it is definitely behind the layer of glass on the outside. It does appear to be VHF only, but the information I have found so far list it as a 63/64 model and that send awfully late to not have UHF.


Andy


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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 6:07 pm 
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It's one of the last VHF only models, and not as common as the wider 19" portables offered during the same model years with the tuner and volume control to the side of the screen.

Other than the fact they ate yokes like candy in humid summer weather, they had a really good picture.

Is that one of the "K" line sets where Zenith experimented with Compactrons, such as a 17GV5 for the horizontal output?

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 6:43 pm 
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Govee wrote:
I'm not sure what that is but it is definitely behind the layer of glass on the outside.

Andy

That's much better than a scratched/moldy plastic cover.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 7:53 pm 
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I had 30 mins to kill so I pulled the chassis out. Below are a few pictures. The CRT i(19DBP4) s in desperate need of doctor Shangoo's cataract surgery center. The chassis does have the 17GV5. It appears something was spilled in the back during it's storage as lots of black goo was in the bottom. Some had congealed and can be scraped and some had the consistency of molasses.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 8:13 pm 
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Location: New Hampshire
Looks like mold.
On most Zeniths with separate safety glass the plastic silver part unclips then
there are 1/4" screws holding it in. This may be an exception as it is the thin
styling. In that case you gotta pull the chassis & CRT.
As far as dating the set is pre march of 1964 when the UHF mandate kicked in.
Closer dating can be done by checking date codes on OEM parts.
These were great running sets & easy to fix. When they got to be 15 or 20 yrs old
they would blow away the pix of any set out there. We loved them.

73 Zeno


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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Sun 25, 2021 11:47 pm 
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Wow! That does look like mold.
Was the gap filled with something? I thought only color tubes of that era had the gap filled with something.
Some bleach might be a good idea, and mask.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Mon 26, 2021 7:34 am 
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Shango has some videos of removing cataracts. Never seen a black and white set with them

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Mon 26, 2021 6:15 pm 
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That looks like a straight up cataract to me. I've seen a couple monochrome Zenith tubes with the bonded safety glass that can get cataracts (they were the type with the wrap around safety glass that covers 1' of the sides of the envelope) and a few small monochrome tubes of other brands with that exact style of safety glass and cataract.

Once in a blue moon you'll find one of those moldy RCA style glue cataracts where the glue is juust soft enough that you can cut it with a cold steel guitar string (which is safer than heat), but that is rare. What I'd do is get a small screw driver(1/8" diameter shaft or smaller), some 2 piece wood clothes pins and an IR thermometer (and a hairdryer as a fall back) and on an 80 degree or higher (preferably not windy)day set the tube face up outside in a bucket and pick out eight .5"a x ~1"d pieces of the glue with the screwdriver at the corners and the middle of each side, then split the clothes pins and wedge the handle end of the clothes pins in the places you picked out the glue. Only wedge them in as much as you can with your bare hands more force than that (especially hammering...never hammer on the wedges) can crack the safety glass. Once the wedges are in measure face temperature and come back in an hour to check temp and tightness. Retighten wedges every hour as they loosten. The glue needs to reach 150f to start to slowly let go (atleast when the center is clear, yours might not need that much), and it needs to reach 170f to quickly let go. In over 80f direct sun weather the tube will naturally heat up to 130f+ in an hour or two (gradually enough to prevent implosion) and may even hit 170f on its own.
Here in Wisconsin I typically let the sun warm it to around 130f in 30-45 minutes switch on a 250W heat lamp about 3' above the tube wait another 45-60 min (checking my wedges every 30min from start) then use a harbor freight heat gun to get the last 20 degrees. I do a gently paced spiral in and or spiral out from center to gently heat the whole face then briefly linger at the edge of the center clear patch. You don't want to develop hot spots on the face of the CRT as that is dangerous...the glue acts as insulation and slows/spreads thermal conduction to the face so you can get parts of the safety glass hotter than others (just be careful not to overdo it or focus on a spot too small or for too long)...The more gradually you do it the better. On color roundys with a large clear area I will often get 2" delamination increase all around then walk away for 10-30 minutes to let temperature equalize then come back and do 2 more inches.

You basically want to sneak up on getting it hot enough to separate is what I'm saying.


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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Mon 26, 2021 9:48 pm 
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If you want to use Electronic Memory's method, slow and gentle is very important. I saw where a guy used that method in the sun and ended up with a plastic garbage can with shards of glass. The wooden wedges cause areas of uneven pressure on the glass, the heat causes expansion and increases the force on the glass. Now I do think that guy was in Florida and he might have covered the whole thing with a black plastic bag.
The method that seems safer to me is to use a electrically heated wire that is drawn across the screen between the glass and the CRT.
Because of the mold I would guess the stuff between was methyl-cellulose based.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Tue 27, 2021 1:50 am 
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Notimetolooz wrote:
If you want to use Electronic Memory's method, slow and gentle is very important. I saw where a guy used that method in the sun and ended up with a plastic garbage can with shards of glass. The wooden wedges cause areas of uneven pressure on the glass, the heat causes expansion and increases the force on the glass. Now I do think that guy was in Florida and he might have covered the whole thing with a black plastic bag.
The method that seems safer to me is to use a electrically heated wire that is drawn across the screen between the glass and the CRT.
Because of the mold I would guess the stuff between was methyl-cellulose based.


I've never had any luck heating wire with electric current. Steel guitar string looses it's tensile strength when enough current to make it hot enough to be effective at cutting the glue...So once it gets hot enough it has about the tensile strength of damp spaghetti and immediately snaps. The glue cools the wire so you can get the wire in the glue hot enough to cut and the exposed ends will fry.

I've only once had a CRT face crack in the sun and on that one I was experimenting (on a 23V rectangular color) with using a mirror to gather more sunlight and had uneven light on the face.
The two things to avoid in a cataract removal are uneven heating of the face and rapid temperature changes. A roundy color can withstand about a 20 degree gradient even radially from center to edge.
The wedges will crack the safety glass a LOT easier than the CRT envelope, then you have to chisel it off or crack it and let up small cracked bits with a heat gun... I'm an inpatient person and I had to ruin about 8 safety glasses before I could preserve both CRT and safety glass...Of course most of those tubes were pure sun as I didn't own a heat gun and was too chicken to try till recently.


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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Tue 27, 2021 2:10 am 
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Location: 20653
The cataract has been removed!

The tools I used are in the picture below.

I set the CRT outside all day in the sun on the box. After dinner and an episode of The Black List, I set out to the garage to start the surgery. I first started with the hacksaw blade around the edge attempting to loosen debris and start a path for the wedges. I used the heat gun next to heat the area along the edge of the side and began to work the wedge in. I got the wedge in about 2" on each side. With the wedges in I heated the corners and started using a sawing motion with the blade. I was able to work each corner to the middle and in about 30 minutes the protection lense was free. A few minutes of light cleaning and it looks good. As soon as I'm able I will close up the patient with a clear screen. I have to research the type of silicon and get some double sided tape.
I think I'll have a celebratory beer.

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Andy


Last edited by Govee on Jul Tue 27, 2021 12:54 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Tue 27, 2021 3:59 am 
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Location: Dallas, TX
Electronic Memory wrote:

I've never had any luck heating wire with electric current. Steel guitar string looses it's tensile strength when enough current to make it hot enough to be effective at cutting the glue...So once it gets hot enough it has about the tensile strength of damp spaghetti and immediately snaps. The glue cools the wire so you can get the wire in the glue hot enough to cut and the exposed ends will fry.

Oh, you have to use nichrome wire. It keeps more strength when hot. You don't need it to be glowing hot.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Tue 27, 2021 6:20 pm 
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Not sure where to source that.


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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Tue 27, 2021 6:36 pm 
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Here?

https://www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-Wire-Replacement-WOOST1436/dp/B0006NARKY


Last edited by Govee on Jul Wed 28, 2021 8:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Jul Wed 28, 2021 12:01 am 
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Joined: May Thu 14, 2015 4:15 pm
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Location: Dallas, TX
That link doesn't seem to work.
There are several brands on Amazon.

Here is another source for good measure.
https://www.sisweb.com/ms/wire-nichrome ... romium.htm

You might be able to find nichrome wire at hobby shops, it is used to cut Styrofoam.

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 Post subject: Re: Rough but complete Zenith L2150 luggage portable
PostPosted: Aug Tue 03, 2021 1:21 am 
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14K20 chassis makes it a 1963 if Im not mistaken. j means 1962, K means 1963, L means 1964, etc. I have a near mint 1964 with 16" screen. Be careful lifting it by the handle as they like to break, but this should be lighter than the larger full depth sized sets.


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