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 Post subject: Re: BC-342 How to clean the tuner gearing
PostPosted: Jan Wed 06, 2021 3:31 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
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Location: Somers, CT
Use the gentle nozzle setting. My pressure washer will drill concrete. I imagine it would blow the plates of the tuning caps and half of the parts...

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 Post subject: Re: BC-342 How to clean the tuner gearing
PostPosted: Jan Thu 07, 2021 12:11 am 
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Joined: Aug Wed 14, 2019 6:56 am
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Location: angeles city.philippines,2009
my interest was corrosion prevention and it was one of those "well as long as i was at it". not to hi jack this thread,but im getting a filthy sx62. it seems i read the dials are fragile lettering wise. would i have to remove those dials to clean with soap and water?


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 Post subject: Re: BC-342 How to clean the tuner gearing
PostPosted: Jan Thu 07, 2021 1:16 am 
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Joined: Aug Wed 14, 2019 6:56 am
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Location: angeles city.philippines,2009
your point is well taken with regard to pressure washers.they operate at different pressure's. i THINK the suggestion is to use something like a 'quarter car wash" i do believe you could get decent results with the right cleaning compounds, a appropriate sized paint brush and a garden hose nozzle.ive used my share of pressure type water blasters. what they will do is get stuff removed that can be reached with "tools"


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 Post subject: Re: BC-342 How to clean the tuner gearing
PostPosted: Jan Thu 07, 2021 2:28 am 
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Posts: 1883
Location: Dandridge, TN 37725
Mikeinkcmo wrote:
Hi Dave,
My first Victim was my Gonset GS-100 a few years ago. It had a bad power transformer, from a previous owner. It was fairly dirty, and even though the weather was fairly cold I washed it anyway.
Image

I used one of those high Watt, high intensity work/flood lights from Harbor Freight to dry it. I did what you see in the pic, one end first, then, turned it end for end, then rotated bottom to top, and did one end of the top side, again swapping that, end for end. I took 4 days to do the entire process but it WAS DRY. For me, just like you, it was a NEW adventure. I then spent another week or so checking/replacing demonstratable bad parts, before firing it up for the alignment.

=====
Does the crystal phasing knob have a skirt? I presume the styling is similar to what I can see of the other knobs, I have a few knobs and maybe I have something that might do. If I have it, its yours for postage, worst case.


I purchased the Harbor Freight lamp today. How long do you leave it one each side?

Regarding the knob, it does not have a skirt. About 0.909" diameter. Lettering says something like CRYSTAL PHASING and there is an arrow. I will place an ad in the classifieds. Thanks!
Attachment:
Missing Knob.jpg
Missing Knob.jpg [ 316.13 KiB | Viewed 324 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: BC-342 How to clean the tuner gearing
PostPosted: Jan Thu 07, 2021 6:18 am 
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Joined: Oct Sun 15, 2006 12:57 pm
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Location: Liberty, Missouri
Quote:
...How long do you leave it one each side?...
In the pic the radio is setting on it's left side with the bottom facing the lamp. Tomorrow flip the radio so its setting on it's right side, with the bottom facing the lamp. The next day just rotate the chassis so the top is facing the light, then on day 4, flip the radio so its setting on it's left side again with the top still toward the lamp for the final day.

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 Post subject: Re: BC-342 How to clean the tuner gearing
PostPosted: Sep Sun 19, 2021 5:12 am 
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OOPS

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 Post subject: Re: BC-342 How to clean the tuner gearing
PostPosted: Sep Sun 19, 2021 10:29 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sat 25, 2020 5:23 am
Posts: 700
Location: Colorado Springs, CO 80917
Quote:
I have to find that missing CRYSTAL PHASING knob.
I doubt that my usual radio/TV knob vendors will help this time.


The Milsurplus forum at QTH.NET may turn up that knob for you.


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 Post subject: Re: BC-342 How to clean the tuner gearing
PostPosted: Sep Mon 20, 2021 2:43 am 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 2324
Location: Potomac, MD 20854
I was browsing through Electric Radio this evening and purely by coincidence ran across a contribution from Howard Mills W3HM in the March 1992 issue under the heading "Collecting/Repair/Restoration...Tips." Those of us who have had Howard work on our cherished boatanchors (raising my hand here) know that when you get your unit back from him it usually looks and always performs better than when it left the factory, so his endorsement, if a bit modified, of Mike's general approach to cleaning should be taken seriously. Here's what he wrote. (Note that he said it's how he presently, i.e., almost 30 years ago, was cleaning old rigs. I haven't asked Howard, who restored a 75A4 for me way back, if he still does it the way he did then.)

How To Make A Nasty Boat Anchor Look Almost New
"How do you get all that grease, nicotine stain and 40 yearws of crud off your restoration work?" they always ask. "Why I just use the old garden hose," I answer. I have stopped counting the times I get asked that question and my answer always brings the response, "Are you sure that is the right thing to do?"

In all the year I have been restoring radios, I have never lost one to water. I used to go the old cotton swab, carbon tetrachloride route. However, that gets boring real fast and doesn't get all the dirt out.

Here is the way I presently clean a chassis prior to restoration:

I first pull all the tubes, crystals, mechanical filter and any other parts that pull out. If the weather is warm I take the chassis outside and place it on the picnic table. I set it down on some pieces of 2x4 lumber. I spray it with a 50-50 mixture of 409 household cleaner and common household ammonia. After a liberal spraying with this mixture I use various sizes of brushes to scrub the chassis and get into those hard to get at places. After I've finished the scrubbing, I just rinse everything off with the garden hose. I do both the top and bottom of the chassis. NOTE: Experience has taught me not to spray the kilocycle dial or the megacycle drum of the Collins 75A- receivers or the 32V transmitters. The lettering has a tendency to run.

I repeat the scrubbing/rinsing process until I am satisfied that the chassis is as clean as I can get it. Depending on the hardness of the water there may be some residual water spots left on the metal. To preclude this, I put a cap of Photo Flo into a bucket of water and douse the work with the solution. Photo Flo is available at most photography supply stores. It is used to wash prints and makes water "wetter" thus preventing those ugly water spots. To dry the work I use the blower position on my heavy duty shop vac. It takes about 20 minutes to get all the water off--use the smallest diameter stream of air possible. In the summer I let the sun bake the chassis.

During the winter months or in the case of inclement weather, I do the washing procedure in the bathtub. Remember to use a 2x4 platform. It not only prevents the tub from getting scratched but prevents the chassis from sitting in water where it would soak up moisture. After using the blow dryer I set the chassis near a heater for several days.

I think this method is quicker and more efficient than any other. The secret is not to let the chassis soak up water.
Howard Mills W3HM

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