Mike, you're right. Four.

Another issue I've run into is there are at least 2 different schematics for this radio, and some of the components are numbered differently. Riders shows 3 electrolytics, C20 10uf@25V, C28 30uf@ 450, and C32 10uf@450V
Thanks
Steve
Wait a minute! There is also C29. I did not see the ditto marks. So which one is not in the can?

The original BAMA schematic shows 4 e-caps

Yes, C28 is 30 uf, C29 and C30 are 10 uf all at 450VDC, triple unit in a can.

C20 is the cathode bypass cap. 20uf at 25 VDC single unit. Probably axial lead.

Deleted:No need to repeat exactly what Paul wrote.

Or,it could be a 10uf at 25vdc,depends on which parts list you're looking at.Just letting OP know that he may see a different value in this position and not to let it throw him.

Here is a picture of the 6F6 tube base. C20 should be connected to pin 8. Is that burnt looking ceramic thing a capacitor? I thought it was a resistor.
Thanks
Steve

That should be the cathode resistor.Is there a wire also connected to pin 8 and running back to the 3-section can?

You have to keep in mind,that just because the schematic shows a component at a certain location,it doesn't mean that that is where it is actually located in the radio.The schematic shows the electrical relationship,not necessarily the actual physical layout.

Even if it's not original, that capacitor doesn't look new.

The front panels looks like it was repainted at some point, but is peeling and rusted. Perhaps repaired/restore or whatever more than once, maybe. You're right that not to assume any prior work done is correct.

Don't know what your goals are. I think this is going to take a while to straigten everything out

p.s.

...just a suggestion on possible path forward.

This link might help

https://adachi-giken.com/receiver/s20r/ ... 5112-L.JPG

(yours versus his in this part of the radio)

Thanks for all the tips. I haven't done anything yet. I'm trying to figure it out before I start refurb. It does not look like this was repainted. It has been messed with though. There is no C20, only 3 part can cap.
Thanks for the pictures. That Japanese guy does nice work!
Have a nice day
Steve

What's going on with the lettering on the front panel?It looks like someone masked over some of it or it looks like there's Scotch tape over some of it?

Added:It looks like that resistor isn't even soldered to pin 8 of the 6F6.They may have forgotten to replace the electrolytic after removing the old part.Someone was half-arsed,that's for sure.

There are bits of scotch tape to keep the lettering from falling off. It hasn't been repainted, but I might.
The resistor is soldered to pin 8 and that looks old, not like the more recent bodge jobs. It doesn't look like C20 was ever there.
Have a nice day
Steve

Shopping list, capacitor questions:
numbers from riders
C22 and C27 show .01mfd @ 800V, Is 630V good enough?
C20 shows 10mfd @ 25V electrolytic, BAMA shows 30 and 40 uf, and it looks like there wasn't one ever in this radio. Is a 22mfd @ 250V electrolytic good enough?
Thanks
Steve

If the original manufacturer's part is 800 volts,you should stick with one that's rated for at least 800 volts.They generally didn't pay for higher rated parts if they weren't needed-especially Hallicrafters.

Anthing from 10-22uf would work just fine for C20.I wouldn't go with a 250 volt cap in that position,there's no need for it.I would imagine you're going to replace the cathode resistor at the same time,it looks beat.

Is a ceramic disk a suitable replacement for the .01mfd 800V capacitor? Note the giant paper ,01mfd 2000V cap in the photo!
Thanks
Steve

Steve, that cap should be fine.

OK, now about the 1400/1500 ohm resistor to replace the speaker field.
Must is be 10W, or could it be more, like 25 Watts?
Thanks
Steve

A resistors power rating can always be higher than the minimum required, just not lower.
So yes, if there is room for a 25 watt resistor and that is all you have , it is OK.

Update: Had a chance to go over the radio with an avionics guy. Both of us date back to tube avionics, me breaking and him fixing. We were able to determine the transformer is good. Some large resistors are completely shot including R29 and R31. The added wire wound resistor is in the wrong place. Lots of broken connections. C20 is missing and look like it was never there. I've seen in print 10, 20, 30, and 40uf for C20. Does it matter?
Could a 6F6 amplifier tube that failed the "shorts" test make the resistors to pop? Waiting on parts.
Have a nice day
Steve

Yes. You should replace it.