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 Post subject: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600-Finished-
PostPosted: Apr Sat 27, 2019 9:06 pm 
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Posts: 1257
Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
I decided to replace the stag covering on a TO-A600 that’s in fair shape. It sits with a A600L and 520A both of which are in very good shape. This is my second recover. On my first I went through all the recovering documents I could fine.
There are 2 that I think were done by members here and they are excellent. I know Badrestorer is one done by John Kopp and Edited by Ed Morris. This is a complete restoration of a H500. Another is just recovering a 8G005YT by Ed Morris I think. There is no name as to who did it. Very good also.

I take pictures. Lots of pictures and a running diary of which piece came off 1st, 2nd and which edge and corner flaps need to be glued down 1st, 2nd, so on and last. It will be easier later when the Tolex goes on. You will thank yourself for doing it.

Remove all hardware including the front door. I remove the pins on the back door. I saw one recovering where they removed the nailed in pins holding the hinge to the frame and door. It made a mess out of the whole area with splinted wood around it. Then filled the area with wood dough. I decided I didn’t want to go through all that and make a mess. By just removing the pin, the door will pull away and give you working room and less work later filling holes. A small finish nail, tack hammer, and a piece of coat hanger works well. First get it started with the nail. I’ve found some pins are somewhat flattened on one side. So if it doesn’t want to move, try going the other way. Once you get it started, then insert the hanger and drive it out.

Attachment:
Nail.JPG
Nail.JPG [ 141.81 KiB | Viewed 1243 times ]

Attachment:
Hanger.JPG
Hanger.JPG [ 143.29 KiB | Viewed 1243 times ]

Time to remove the Stag. You may want to do this outside or in your garage because it is messy with water and black specks everywhere. They say to pull it off with your fingers, putty knife, or credit card and then sand all the black specs off with a sander. So I started pulling some of the stag off, but some of it wanted to tear or wouldn’t come off at all. I found that using a couple of old face cloths and sponges that are soaked in hot tap water loosened the glue. Let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes. That worked on my first recover, but wasn’t working on this one for some reason. Maybe because the temperature in the garage has been in the low to mid 70’s. The cloth was cold after a few minutes. So after 2 minutes I got new hot water and soaked the cloths again. This worked. Only 2 or 3 soakings and the covering lifted right up. I set each piece aside to dry some.

I started with the bottom piece, which runs up the front half way. I had to cut around the bottom hinges. They were installed after the original covering was put on.

Attachment:
11 Bottom Hinge.JPG
11 Bottom Hinge.JPG [ 112.44 KiB | Viewed 1243 times ]

A little soaking around the back edges and bottom and it came right up. Next is the front and onto the edge. When you take this piece off you will see two short pieces that go in the curved area. Don't take these pieces off. They will be covered when the new Tolex goes on.

Attachment:
Curved Piece.JPG
Curved Piece.JPG [ 119.31 KiB | Viewed 1243 times ]

This piece came off easy as one big section.

Attachment:
10 Bottom Section.JPG
10 Bottom Section.JPG [ 109.33 KiB | Viewed 1243 times ]

Edits were done to try and shorten this up.


Last edited by Freeman on May Fri 17, 2019 2:31 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: Apr Sun 28, 2019 3:55 am 
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Joined: Feb Fri 01, 2019 11:35 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Riverside Ca. 92504
Thanks I have been wondering about the easiest way to remove part of the tolex on the transoceanics. I brought a couple of yards to do some recovering. Tom


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: Apr Sun 28, 2019 6:25 pm 
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Posts: 1257
Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
Good luck with it Tom. I've found that one yard can do the 600 with 1 large piece left over. That can be used if you screw up a piece and It looks like I'll be needing that piece mtself

Freeman.


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: Apr Sun 28, 2019 6:54 pm 
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Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
I now had the wood with glue and stag pieces on it. I found that I could remove the black specs with a putty knife while it was still wet. Some pieces needed a little help and they got more hot water. One of those cheep putty knives that has a somewhat sharp edge works nice.

Attachment:
Half Cleaned Bottom.JPG
Half Cleaned Bottom.JPG [ 131.78 KiB | Viewed 1189 times ]

With the bottom cloth off, I cleaned it up with the wet sponge. I set up a press with a towel, piece of cardboard with one side shiny, and some weight to keep it flat. For me, my Tube Tester box was perfect.

Attachment:
Drying Table.JPG
Drying Table.JPG [ 119.39 KiB | Viewed 1189 times ]

Next is the top section where the WaveMagnet sits.

Attachment:
8 WM Hole--5.JPG
8 WM Hole--5.JPG [ 132.71 KiB | Viewed 1189 times ]

I started with the insides and edges and then the top. This one was a breeze and after cleaning the cloth, it is off to the drying table.

Attachment:
9 Top Section.JPG
9 Top Section.JPG [ 105.26 KiB | Viewed 1189 times ]

Now clean up the top bare wood area.

Now I have just the left and right sidepieces, which should come off real easy. Don’t forget the pictures and continue with the diary. What I did was take a picture of each corner. Marked each picture as (top left, top right, so on) and with MS Paint I numbered each fold. Because I will be using the pictures as a guide when the new cover goes on, (1) will be the tab I glue down first, (2) next and so on.

Attachment:
12 Front Top Right.JPG
12 Front Top Right.JPG [ 96.93 KiB | Viewed 1189 times ]

Attachment:
15 Front Right Bottom.JPG
15 Front Right Bottom.JPG [ 121.65 KiB | Viewed 1189 times ]

Next I printed each picture in draft mode because I’m cheap and colored ink is expensive. Sometimes it’s hard to tell how it was laid out in the beginning. Depending on what shape your old Stag was in. Those pictures were left blank and I’ll just have to wing it when the time comes.

Attachment:
Corner Unmarked.JPG
Corner Unmarked.JPG [ 110.2 KiB | Viewed 1189 times ]

Now remove and clean each side with the water and set in the press to dry. I cleaned up the specks on the wood and went over the bare wood with 80 sand paper after it dried. The sand paper is just to rough up the wood and remove any specks that may get caught under the new Tolex. I didn't see any senses in sanding it pretty. It's all going to get covered up anyway.


Last edited by Freeman on May Sat 11, 2019 8:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: Apr Tue 30, 2019 3:32 pm 
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Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
With all the wood now cleaned up, it’s time to apply the Tolex. Here is a picture of the tools I needed. The roller is a lint remover you can probably find in the Dollar Store type places. Mine is wider courtesy of Apple that we needed to clean the front glass after it was removed. I used some clear wrap over it to cover up the sticky surface. This works well to roll out the flat pieces, edges, and corners. The cheap 1” and 2” brushes work well with the cement. I suggest you get a couple. The Contact Cement can says you can clean with Mineral Spirits. Maybe wiping up a little spill, but I found after the brush sat in a jar of Spirits I ended up with little globs of cement attached to the brush. I was able to scrape most of it off with a sharp putty knife and I was able to use it again.

Attachment:
Handy Tools.JPG
Handy Tools.JPG [ 131.35 KiB | Viewed 1146 times ]

The Tolex is available in a few places and all are probably very good. When I did my first one, I got the Black Elephant pattern at Parts Express. To me it looked closer to the original pattern. It comes 54” wide and is sold in 36” widths, but I’ve always received about 38”. I like a company that goes over and above for the customer.

I measured the old pieces and they run between 16” and 18” at the widest part. I cut the fabric sheet in half giving me 2 18”X54” pieces or there about. I laid each of the old pieces on the strips and I will have some extra for any screw-ups, which is good. Lay the Tolex with the backside up. Layout the eight old piece so their old glue side is up. Now draw the pattern and the cut lines with the white pencil. I drew all eight patterns.

Attachment:
Pattern Layout A.jpg
Pattern Layout A.jpg [ 35.27 KiB | Viewed 1146 times ]

From here on you will need the pictures you took in the beginning. I decided to do the back door first. Lay the door on the pattern so the left, right, and top can be folded over giving you about ½” on the inside to glue down. The line on the right side was correct so that got cut off. You will be cutting squares out on each corner, but not yet. You want the width to be perfect on the top corners so none of the wood will be seen when all three sides are folded in. A trick that was brought up by someone else is to use black paint or a large Sharpie to go over areas like this first. A black Sharpie can hide most mistakes.

Attachment:
35New Back Door.JPG
35New Back Door.JPG [ 101.31 KiB | Viewed 1146 times ]

I aligned the top edge with ½” inside and clamped it down. Now pulled the fabric up to the hinge area and made sure the white lines are close to the hinge. You will have lines on the left and right for the folds in the hinge area. Do not cut them yet.

Attachment:
36 Clamped.JPG
36 Clamped.JPG [ 118.98 KiB | Viewed 1146 times ]

Attachment:
37 Hing Marking.JPG
37 Hing Marking.JPG [ 93.68 KiB | Viewed 1146 times ]

With the clamps still holding I glued half of the door. When ready, I used the roller to press the fabric down, removed the clamps, turned it over and let it set with weight on it. The EverReady Battery was perfect.

Attachment:
38 Glue.JPG
38 Glue.JPG [ 122.09 KiB | Viewed 1146 times ]

The glued area of the back door had set for a few hours so I decided to finish just the flat part. I glued that area and when it was ready, I rolled it out and applied pressure. Juice bottles sitting on 1/8th pressboard worked for me. The pressboard has a white shiny side that the glue doesn't stick to very well. Badrestorer gave me this idea for the thumbhole. A ¾” PVC coupler is perfect size to fit around it. This gives pressure around the ring.

Attachment:
39 Pressure.JPG
39 Pressure.JPG [ 134.5 KiB | Viewed 1146 times ]

Time to let it dry over night.


Last edited by Freeman on May Sat 11, 2019 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Fri 03, 2019 4:51 pm 
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Joined: Dec Tue 23, 2014 6:51 pm
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Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
Next are the flaps. First I cut out the bottom corners. You want them to line up with the edges so no wood is seen. I used the black Sharpie around the corners. There is a notch cut out on the right. Cut the fabric so it will lie into that notch. Cut the slits around the top curved area. The top flap should fold over the hinge. Now cut a slit for the hinge to go through. (See Yellow line above. Hinge Marking) You want to cut the left and right sides of that flap so they line up with the edges of the wood and fall down inside straight.

Attachment:
42 Backdoor.JPG
42 Backdoor.JPG [ 122.47 KiB | Viewed 1064 times ]


Now the edges and fabric need to be glued and folded in. Until you get use to folding around corners it maybe easier to do this in steps. Glue just the bottom piece. The right side up to the notch and the left side half way up.

Attachment:
43 Back Door Edges To Be Glued.jpg
43 Back Door Edges To Be Glued.jpg [ 120.19 KiB | Viewed 1064 times ]


Start the bottom strip pushing it up and over with your thumb along the length. You’ll find the Tolex becomes more workable now that it has some glue on it. Work it up and over nice and tight with your thumb. I use the roller to go over it next. Now do the same with the right side up to the notch and the left side half way.

Attachment:
44 Curling in Edges.JPG
44 Curling in Edges.JPG [ 111.28 KiB | Viewed 1064 times ]


Now glue the rest including the half done left side and when it’s ready start with the 2 rounded edges. The pictures I took showed I should start at the top and work my way down. Fold that in with your thumb so it is tight and smooth. The next piece should fold over part of the last one and make a nice smooth edge. Continue down constantly going over your work with your thumb. When finished you should have a nice even edge. If your not happy with what you see then you can just pull it up and start again. This corner showed just 3 pieces to be folded in. Next do the other side.

Attachment:
45 Back Door Corner Finished.JPG
45 Back Door Corner Finished.JPG [ 94.1 KiB | Viewed 1064 times ]


With the corners done, fold over the left and right sides. Last bring the top flap over the hinges and down. At this point I go over all my work with the roller and my thumb before I clamp it all down to cure. Don’t worry about any glue on the outside of the Tolex. I’ll handle that later. I had a wood piece cut at a 45-degree angle that worked good to clamp in this area.
Here and the front door can be stapled rather than clamped with wood. Just on the left, right, and bottom. The pin holes are hidden by the Tolex that goes on top.
Attachment:
46 Back Door.JPG
46 Back Door.JPG [ 97.39 KiB | Viewed 1064 times ]


$64,000 dollar question. Why is there a notch cut out on the bottom? The power cord is retractable and comes out the side. This is my second A600 and I have an A600L. All three have a notch. I also have a Y600 with no notch. I don’t know about the models in between. Why just the A model?


Last edited by Freeman on May Sun 05, 2019 10:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Sun 05, 2019 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Dec Tue 23, 2014 6:51 pm
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Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
The back door just needs a little cleaning up. Glue didn’t take well in the bottom corners. Elmer’s should work here. The back flap will be cut and folded up into the notch. There is glue residue on the left. Greg said that Contact Cement never really hardens. That maybe true under the Tolex, but along the edges it does get hard. It takes a few days for that to happen. Here it has only been over 12 hours and the cement is rubbery. Now is the time to cleanup any that got on the Tolex. Start rubbing your finger back and forth across it. The glue will roll up into little balls and come right up.

Attachment:
47 Corners Lifting.JPG
47 Corners Lifting.JPG [ 128.43 KiB | Viewed 1026 times ]

When I cut slits in the finger hole and found out the glue didn’t take on the indentation. I don’t think clamping the coupler worked very well for me. I pulled back the flaps and covered the exposed wood with the large black Sharpie.

Attachment:
48 Finger Hole.JPG
48 Finger Hole.JPG [ 162.24 KiB | Viewed 1026 times ]

I glued the corners and the flap by the notch with Elmer’s Glue-All. Also around the finger hole then pushed it down with the PVC coupler. I’ll see how a brick for pressure works this time.

Attachment:
49 Back almost done.JPG
49 Back almost done.JPG [ 112.28 KiB | Viewed 1026 times ]

I’ll cut around the brass ring later.
I had already drawn the front door pattern out. I placed the door on it and made sure there is enough Tolex to fold in the ½”. Left, right, and bottom. Any extra will be cut off. Now fold up the back and cut it so a flap will fall between the 2 hinges. The left and right lines you see are the extra and can be cut out now all the way up.
By making cuts along the inside hinges, I am able to pull the fabric down tight and making sure the lines on the upper left and right side of the hinge area lineup correctly so when they are cut they will fold over to make nice rounded edges up there.

Attachment:
1 Front Door.JPG
1 Front Door.JPG [ 107.23 KiB | Viewed 1026 times ]

Put the door back on and fold the flap in between the hinges. Cut out the corner pieces as shown below.

Attachment:
2 Hinge Area.JPG
2 Hinge Area.JPG [ 115.49 KiB | Viewed 1026 times ]

If everything looks good then draw a white line around the wood edges. Apply glue just to the front flat section of the wood and the Tolex inside the edge. When it’s ready, lay the door inside your lines. Just press down, flip over to role smooth, and then back over and put some weight on it.


Last edited by Freeman on May Sat 25, 2019 9:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Mon 06, 2019 7:39 pm 
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Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
Oh the brick idea worked this time. The Tolex folded in nicely with cut slits. I cut around the brass ring.

Attachment:
3 Finger Hole Finished.JPG
3 Finger Hole Finished.JPG [ 167.42 KiB | Viewed 1005 times ]

At this point I poked the two holes for the front latch with an awl from the inside. This will make it easier to find later.

Attachment:
4 Awl.JPG
4 Awl.JPG [ 125.86 KiB | Viewed 1005 times ]

Back to the front door. Cut slits on the bottom curved area up to the edge of the wood. The left and right flaps need to be cut at the bottom edge of that curved piece of wood. (See the while line). Make the cuts right up to the edge of the wood.
Make cuts on the top rounded area and fold in starting with the very back and work down. If everything looks good, then glue it. You don’t want to glue the inside curved area yet, so apply glue up to and including that top edge only.

Attachment:
5 Front Door.JPG
5 Front Door.JPG [ 109.54 KiB | Viewed 1005 times ]

Now glue the rest of the bottom section. Do the corners first. Pull up and over. Keep working this curve with your thumb for a nice tight smooth corner. Last fold in the two sides and the bottom.
Now clamp the whole thing to dry.

Attachment:
6 Front Door.JPG
6 Front Door.JPG [ 100.29 KiB | Viewed 1005 times ]


Last edited by Freeman on May Sat 11, 2019 8:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Tue 07, 2019 9:15 pm 
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Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
I found a piece of ½” PVC pipe that fit nicely inside the curved area. Two small clamps fit right in the holes to keep pressure while it cures.

Attachment:
7 PVC for curved area.JPG
7 PVC for curved area.JPG [ 106.87 KiB | Viewed 974 times ]

The front and back door inside pieces are next. I laid them inside to make sure they cover everything and to give me an idea how they will fit. I decided to do both at the same time. I tacked them to a cardboard box for gluing.

Attachment:
8 Door covers.JPG
8 Door covers.JPG [ 114.62 KiB | Viewed 974 times ]

The back door piece curled up some, but I was able to get it set properly. Roll it out and I covered it with 1/8” press board and weight. The front door piece didn’t work out so well. When I took out the tacks, it rolled up like an empty towel paper roll. I did get it in place, but it took a while.
I removed the weights from the two doors. The inside pieces look fine. In about an hour the edges started lifting. Just on the front door. I worked them back down with my thumb, but in a half hour they came back up. The glue was tacky when I lifted it up. I think I used too much glue or didn’t wait long enough before setting it on the door. I removed the panel and will let both pieces dry.


Last edited by Freeman on May Sat 11, 2019 8:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Wed 08, 2019 9:47 pm 
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The cabinet is next. The left and right side are next. Gluing one half at a time worked well with the doors, so I did the same with the sides. After the pattern is cut, you will see a curved line. This is the front side. Lay the box on it so it is evenly placed and draw a line around it. Do the same with the other side.
Attachment:
5 Right side piece.JPG
5 Right side piece.JPG [ 119.49 KiB | Viewed 954 times ]

Fold up the front and back and clamp it.
Attachment:
6 Right side clamped.JPG
6 Right side clamped.JPG [ 121.93 KiB | Viewed 954 times ]

Now turn it over clamp this side. Now you can peel back half of the Tolex like a banana. I just apply glue to the flat surfaces. Apply glue to both sides and when ready, fold down, roll out, and put some pressure on it. I gave it 30 minutes and did the same to the other side. I hung it off the edge of a table, weight on top and let it sit for an hour
Attachment:
7 Sides dry time.JPG
7 Sides dry time.JPG [ 135.08 KiB | Viewed 954 times ]

Now glue the other half of each side like before. No clamps are needed. Just some weight until the glue dries.
Now is a good time to glue down the two 1” pads on the front curved area also. Do not use a new Tolex piece here. You will find it is to thick later. The old original piece works good or cut a piece from old Stag. No clamping needed.
Attachment:
8 Curved Pads.JPG
8 Curved Pads.JPG [ 137.12 KiB | Viewed 954 times ]


Last edited by Freeman on May Sat 25, 2019 10:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Thu 09, 2019 8:16 pm 
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Now for the corners and fold over pieces. I took out the pictures I had taken before and are numbered. I cut the slits only on the rounded edge. I folded over the flaps in the sequence shown in the pictures. It looked good, so I numbered these flaps.

Attachment:
9 Corner folds.JPG
9 Corner folds.JPG [ 99.95 KiB | Viewed 924 times ]

Do the same to each corner. I had two that wouldn’t give me a nice rounded corner. It took a while trying to determine what is wrong. I finally found a way that looked the best and numbered that way. If plan A doesn’t work, then go to plan B. Continue doing the corners on both sides.
I pulled up the front and cut the curve with a razor knife. This is the area where the dial face slides in.

Attachment:
10 Curved Area.JPG
10 Curved Area.JPG [ 84.81 KiB | Viewed 924 times ]

Last is the slot for the front door hinge. Beside it is a sliver that will fall inside the hinge hole.

Attachment:
11 Top Front Door Slot.jpg
11 Top Front Door Slot.jpg [ 40.59 KiB | Viewed 924 times ]

Now it’s time to start gluing. I bought a small jar of Contact Cement that has a brush inside for this section. A 1” brush would work just as well though. I came up with one problem. How do I clamp the edges? I couldn’t finger it out. Time to check Ed’s document. The darn staple gun. Why didn’t I think about that earlier? I wasted so much time doing the doors.
Start with any corner and work your way around that side. Fold the corner in first using your thumb to get it tight, smooth, and staple. Next the flat side. A little glue may be seen and you can rub that off later.

Attachment:
12 Edges and sides.JPG
12 Edges and sides.JPG [ 125.05 KiB | Viewed 924 times ]

Go back over places you just finished as your going around. To make sure each corner is flat and smooth. You can use your thumb to roll any excess glue into little balls. I had a couple of bumpy places and a tack hammer will smooth them out nicely.

Attachment:
13 Stapled Down A.JPG
13 Stapled Down A.JPG [ 103.32 KiB | Viewed 924 times ]

Just continue around until both sides are complete. There are 8 corners, but only 4 will be seen. You want to do your best work on the front.
I used Elmer’s for the hinge slot on top and held with a piece of wood.

Attachment:
14 Front Door Hinge Slot.JPG
14 Front Door Hinge Slot.JPG [ 118.69 KiB | Viewed 924 times ]

The bottom of the cabinet has 4 holes for the feet. I marked the location with a white pencil. Then found the holes with a tack. Now a couple of staples will hold the flap in place until it dries.

Attachment:
15 Finding Feet Holes.JPG
15 Finding Feet Holes.JPG [ 121.68 KiB | Viewed 924 times ]

Now both sides are done. This is a good time to go over all your work and rub off any glue spots you see.


Last edited by Freeman on May Sat 11, 2019 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Fri 10, 2019 9:14 pm 
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I installed both front and back doors to make sure they closed smoothly.
Both fit perfectly.

Attachment:
Testing Doors for Fitnesss.JPG
Testing Doors for Fitnesss.JPG [ 138.28 KiB | Viewed 896 times ]

Now the two sides are finished. The Tolex came in pretty far on some corners and I cut them back. The blue line shows the edge of the top piece.

Attachment:
16 Overhang.JPG
16 Overhang.JPG [ 46.47 KiB | Viewed 896 times ]

The screw holes for the feet will be covered when the bottom strip is glued on. I had holes started with the pins. I widened them with a screw. Easier to find later.

Attachment:
17 Feet Holes.JPG
17 Feet Holes.JPG [ 124.45 KiB | Viewed 896 times ]

Time to put the top on. Lay it on the top and it should be the same width as the back door opening. Mine was a little to long so one edge was trimmed back.

Attachment:
18 Top Width.jpg
18 Top Width.jpg [ 70.81 KiB | Viewed 896 times ]

The back edge should fold in almost to back edge of the WaveMagnet hole. The front should be enough to come over the edge and onto that piece of wood you see below. Everything was correct, so I stapled that edge.

Attachment:
19 Top.JPG
19 Top.JPG [ 119.55 KiB | Viewed 896 times ]

I had drawn in the center part where the WaveMagnet lays, but it’s not necessary. That can be done later. I glued the back edge and top. Pulled it up and over and rolled it smooth. You may see some glue on the topside edges. You can remove that by rolling your thumb and fingers along that edge. It will start rolling up in little balls. Pick them off. A board on top with some weight should hold it for drying.

Attachment:
20 Front Stapled.JPG
20 Front Stapled.JPG [ 107.35 KiB | Viewed 896 times ]

Some corners didn’t hold well so I repaired these places. This is where the small jar of glue worked well.

Attachment:
21 Lifted Area Glued.jpg
21 Lifted Area Glued.jpg [ 60.1 KiB | Viewed 896 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Sat 11, 2019 8:36 pm 
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The WaveMagnet hole is next. I drew the lines and cut them with the razor knife. The staples you see are removed and that piece is moved out of the way. The bottom flap in the hole should fold over enough to staple after gluing. Do the same with the top piece and cut that below the handle holes. Glue it all up and work each piece around nice and tight with your thumb before stapling.
Attachment:
22 WaveMagnet Hole.jpg
22 WaveMagnet Hole.jpg [ 109.16 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]

Attachment:
23 Hole.jpg
23 Hole.jpg [ 54.95 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]

The bottom section is next.
Attachment:
24 Bottom Sheet.JPG
24 Bottom Sheet.JPG [ 102.44 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]

Lay this on the front so it lines up left and right (White Lines) and comes up where the curved front pieces are (Yellow Line).
Attachment:
25 Bottom Front Edges.jpg
25 Bottom Front Edges.jpg [ 105.83 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]

Turn the case bottom up and make sure the back edge will fall between the sides. Now clamp it. Recheck the front so it looks even.
Attachment:
26 Bottom Clamp in PLace.JPG
26 Bottom Clamp in PLace.JPG [ 98.25 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]

Now find the feet screw holes and punch nice big holes.
Attachment:
27 Feet Screw Holes.JPG
27 Feet Screw Holes.JPG [ 102.51 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]

This is the area that will be glued first, along with the top flaps.
Attachment:
28 Bottom Glue Area.jpg
28 Bottom Glue Area.jpg [ 124.27 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]

Attachment:
29 Top Flaps.JPG
29 Top Flaps.JPG [ 32.01 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]

When the glue was ready, I folded up the topside flaps and stapled them when they were nice and tight. Last is the bottom. Rolled it down, removed clamps, and water bottles on top.
Attachment:
30 Botttom Glued.JPG
30 Botttom Glued.JPG [ 128.28 KiB | Viewed 869 times ]


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Tue 14, 2019 7:53 pm 
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Joined: Dec Tue 23, 2014 6:51 pm
Posts: 1257
Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
The rest of the Bottom needs to be glued along with the front door inside which got screwed up earlier. This is where that extra piece of Tolex comes in handy. The front door panel is cut 1/8” in for the left, right, and bottom. The back area goes up far enough to cover the wood.
Attachment:
G Front Door Insides.JPG
G Front Door Insides.JPG [ 109.92 KiB | Viewed 822 times ]

I started with the cabinet first. Cut slits so the Tolex fits over the back hinges.
Attachment:
31 Slits for Back Hinge.JPG
31 Slits for Back Hinge.JPG [ 128.18 KiB | Viewed 822 times ]

Next lay the cabinet on it’s front and draw around this area where the plastic dial face goes.
Attachment:
32 Front inside area.JPG
32 Front inside area.JPG [ 109.2 KiB | Viewed 822 times ]

I rolled back the bottom and front pieces so they would be out of the way. I’m going to glue this and the front door pieces at the same time.
Attachment:
33 Glue bottom and Front.JPG
33 Glue bottom and Front.JPG [ 117.56 KiB | Viewed 822 times ]

I laid the front door piece so it is even all around and clamp the front section so it doesn’t move. Only glue a 2” strip across the back area.
Attachment:
Inside Front Door Glue Area.jpg
Inside Front Door Glue Area.jpg [ 109.66 KiB | Viewed 822 times ]

Now glue everything and use the roller and your hands to smooth it all out. Remove the clamped wood from the front door and put some weight on it to dry.
Attachment:
34 Bottom Clamped.JPG
34 Bottom Clamped.JPG [ 119.59 KiB | Viewed 822 times ]


Attachments:
33 Glue bottom and Front.JPG
33 Glue bottom and Front.JPG [ 117.56 KiB | Viewed 822 times ]
34 Bottom Clamped.JPG
34 Bottom Clamped.JPG [ 119.59 KiB | Viewed 822 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Wed 15, 2019 5:02 pm 
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Joined: Dec Tue 23, 2014 6:51 pm
Posts: 1257
Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
Theoretically this should be the final stretch. I used the awl to poke holes for the 6 screws.
Attachment:
35 Front Door.JPG
35 Front Door.JPG [ 114.54 KiB | Viewed 803 times ]

I drew circles to make it easier to find the holes. This area will be covered later.
Attachment:
36 Front Door Screw Holes.JPG
36 Front Door Screw Holes.JPG [ 120.1 KiB | Viewed 803 times ]

Cut the front opening slits and the front long edge so it just touches the wire light troth.
Attachment:
37 Front Edge Fold Over.jpg
37 Front Edge Fold Over.jpg [ 95.78 KiB | Viewed 803 times ]

Everything got glued up. I rolled out the door and put on some weight.
Next was the back of the cabinet.
Attachment:
38 Back Clamped.JPG
38 Back Clamped.JPG [ 117.03 KiB | Viewed 803 times ]

Last is stapling the front down.
Attachment:
39 Front Stapled.JPG
39 Front Stapled.JPG [ 123.01 KiB | Viewed 803 times ]

The 2 sides on the top were forgotten. A touch of glue and some wedges for it to dry.
Attachment:
40 Finished.JPG
40 Finished.JPG [ 127.13 KiB | Viewed 803 times ]

My final touch on the inside.
Attachment:
41 Tube Layout Sticker.JPG
41 Tube Layout Sticker.JPG [ 133.8 KiB | Viewed 803 times ]


Next is cleaning up any glue residue and put the doors on.

It's Beer Time


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600
PostPosted: May Fri 17, 2019 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Dec Tue 23, 2014 6:51 pm
Posts: 1257
Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
FINISHED
All the time and hard work are done. It looks nice from a distance. Up close are a few defects. This strip was cleaned of excess glue, but you can see some that didn’t come off completely. There were a few places like this. KIWI Black Leather Dye works on this. I went over the line with the edge of the applicator. Pat it out with a paper towel and rub it all off. What’s left is a nice black line that blends right in.
Attachment:
41 Glue Residue Cleanup.jpg
41 Glue Residue Cleanup.jpg [ 164.29 KiB | Viewed 756 times ]

I got the doors on and the front door was a little tight around that curved area. I dug under the front flaps and removed that strip I had installed. Now it closes normal. I am going to leave the original strip in there if I do another.

It’s all back together and I’m happy with the new look. Here are a few pictures.
Attachment:
42 Front.JPG
42 Front.JPG [ 157.54 KiB | Viewed 756 times ]

Attachment:
43 Front.JPG
43 Front.JPG [ 155.71 KiB | Viewed 756 times ]

Attachment:
44Edge.JPG
44Edge.JPG [ 129.43 KiB | Viewed 756 times ]

Attachment:
45 Top.JPG
45 Top.JPG [ 154.04 KiB | Viewed 756 times ]

Attachment:
46 Back A.JPG
46 Back A.JPG [ 143.7 KiB | Viewed 756 times ]

Attachment:
47 Back B.JPG
47 Back B.JPG [ 149.08 KiB | Viewed 756 times ]

Attachment:
48 Back C.JPG
48 Back C.JPG [ 157.56 KiB | Viewed 756 times ]

I apologize for the poor grammar. English was my worst subject in school, as you all probably know. Vocational school got me my diploma. My spell checker got a workout also. Scrolling through this had to be a pain for those who were following this. I thought it would start making pages 2 and 3 and 4 to make it easier to follow. Peter told me page 2 would start after 20 responses.
I hope this helped if you want to try it yourself.

Thank you for your patients.
Freeman


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600-Finish
PostPosted: May Fri 17, 2019 8:00 pm 
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Joined: May Mon 30, 2011 10:12 pm
Posts: 1419
Location: Glendale, CA
Freeman,

Thank you so much for doing this. I really appreciate all the detailed pictures that give all the necessary information needed to perform this procedure on their own radio. Now, I'm much more likely to buy a Transoceanic if the covering is badly damaged.

Tom

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"A challenge to be met, rather than an obstacle to avoid." - Mr. Data


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600-Finish
PostPosted: May Mon 20, 2019 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Jun Thu 05, 2008 6:28 pm
Posts: 626
Location: Santa Rosa Ca
What a job well done!


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600-Finish
PostPosted: May Mon 20, 2019 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3426
Location: Massachusetts
showroom new


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600-Finish
PostPosted: May Tue 21, 2019 5:18 am 
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Joined: Jan Sun 06, 2008 3:28 am
Posts: 4296
Location: Richmond, VA
Excellent work! Your H500 looks great. And your your thread is very well done, too. Great photos and tutorial.

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Ed


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