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 Post subject: Porcupine radio cabinet
PostPosted: Jun Wed 05, 2019 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3255
Location: Nr London, England, SS1 3PT
:D
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Something different. Wood worm treated (Permethrin) and left in the warm and dry for 6 months so now time to start doing something with the holes.

This is the worst side and I drilled the holes out to 2mm and then plugged them with cocktail sticks dipped in white glue. Plan is to sand them off and then remove the original finish. I didn't do this first as I wanted the sticks to go into clean wood. Then I will give a coat of lacquer and get to work with the "artists oil paint method". No stain as the stick ends would absorb too much and be too dark. Be a test of my artistic skills all though not much grain to mimic.

In the past I have used filler but it didn't hide the holes. They actually domed out a little, perhaps the worms applying pressure :D Doing that, it isn't certain how deep the filler goes in whereas with the stick they go almost all the way through.

Only concern is what I take to be veneer is actually paper. Philips did do this but I may be lucky as another similar year model wasn't. Of course with them you never know as they built the same model all over Europe, so reginal variations can be expected. For this one I found circuit info for 5 different countries.

Did the baffle board and the inside, same way and will matt black paint it all. Fortunately the patterned veneer front not touched.

Gary


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 Post subject: Re: Porcupine radio cabinet
PostPosted: Jun Thu 06, 2019 2:24 am 
Site Admin

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 10715
Location: Baguio City, Philippines
Have you used burn-in sticks? I think that would have been a much simpler method and would look better in the end.


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 Post subject: Re: Porcupine radio cabinet
PostPosted: Jun Thu 06, 2019 7:57 am 
Member

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3255
Location: Nr London, England, SS1 3PT
Never tried burn in sticks Alan: could be hard to buy here.

Quite like the cocktail stick idea though (so far anyway) as I can tell how deep in they go. Will post some pics of how it pans out.

"Simpler". Dont do simple :D

Guess Fred would have just steamed off the old veneer / paper and re-veneered it but I'm not great at that. But who knows I may have to get to grips with it if this doesn't come out pretty good

thanks Gary


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 Post subject: Re: Porcupine radio cabinet
PostPosted: Jun Fri 07, 2019 5:36 am 
Site Admin

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 10715
Location: Baguio City, Philippines
You have the internet, you can easily get the tools and supplies that way. Watch a couple of YouTube videos on them. I can't look up specific ones at the moment, but I remember one where a guy took a new oak cabinet door, gouged it with a screw drive, then made a nearly invisible repair using burn in sticks. It's the way professionals do it.


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 Post subject: Re: Porcupine radio cabinet
PostPosted: Jun Fri 07, 2019 7:56 am 
Member

Joined: Jan Thu 01, 1970 1:00 am
Posts: 3255
Location: Nr London, England, SS1 3PT
Maybe takes a lot of practice and experience where as mine is more with the oil paints. I believe I'm pretty good at it now and the advantage is that adjustments can be made with every lacquer layer.

Probably could buy the burn in sticks but when I looked, years ago, they were in kits of multiple shades plus the iron etc. Pretty expensive for a one off cabinet for a radio of little value. My way I get the fun of trying something for next to nothing (have all the artists oil paints).

Good thing though is the side now sanded and stripped is veneer albeit very thin :)

thanks though Gary


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