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 Post subject: Some Zenith Transoceanic recovering questions, glue?
PostPosted: May Sat 09, 2020 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Apr Sat 06, 2019 3:03 am
Posts: 50
Location: College Station, Texas
I've seen some people recommend spray adhesive and some others contact cement what are the advantages?
What sort of gray paper have you used behind the wave magnet? I was thinking of spaying a piece of the Tolex gray so it might last better.
The cabinet wood smells a little musty would a bleach spray work on that? Thanks Jackson


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 Post subject: Re: Some Zenith Transoceanic recovering questions, glue?
PostPosted: May Sat 09, 2020 9:34 pm 
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Joined: Jan Sun 06, 2008 3:28 am
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Location: Richmond, VA
Are you replacing the covering or just gluing down loose pieces? If you are removing all the old black stag and replacing it with new material, such as Tolex, you could possibly use a spray adhesive, such as 3M 77 spray, but I don’t recommend it.

Often the old wood is so dried out, it sucks up anything you put on it, so I don’t know how long a spray adhesive would last before it starts to delaminate. I would recommend Weldwood solvent based contact cement. It’s what most restorers use.

For simply gluing down loose black stag, a spray adhesive would be impractical. You can buy the Weldwood contact cement in small bottles, and it works well to tack down loose covering. See photo below.

For the gray inside lid covering, just mask off everything else and spray it with a matching gray areosol paint. It works well and will look like new. See second photo below.

To remove the musty odor, you could try wiping down the cabinet with a bleach solution or even some Simple Green, which is what I use to clean TO cabinets. You want to avoid getting the cabinet really wet, though. I always dry the cabinet off right away.

Attachment:
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You can find more tips in the Cabinet Restoration forum.

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Ed


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 Post subject: Re: Some Zenith Transoceanic recovering questions, glue?
PostPosted: May Sat 09, 2020 9:41 pm 
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Joined: Dec Wed 25, 2013 7:57 am
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Location: USA
Just an opinion: I personally think ordinary white glue is more forgiving because the slower drying allows extra time to fix mistakes.

Bleach is harsh stuff. I would use it only if mold is suspected and should be no stronger than 10:1 dilution. Ordinary 409 or 3% hydrogen peroxide should work too. Whatever you use, let it air dry completely. If it's just odor, maybe a deodorizer like "Fabreze?"


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 Post subject: Re: Some Zenith Transoceanic recovering questions, glue?
PostPosted: May Sun 10, 2020 12:02 am 
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Joined: Dec Tue 23, 2014 6:51 pm
Posts: 1743
Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
I tried the 3M 77 once on a piece of tolex for the inside cover of a wood box. What I found is it’s a one shot deal and once it’s down, it doesn’t want to move. Something like you get one shot at placing it. I put a piece of wood that fit into the cover with juice bottles for weights over night. Three days later, the tolex was curled up on the edges and corners. Others here say they have had good luck with it. Maybe I did something wrong, A new piece of tolex with Weldwood Contact Cement and it’s still hold a year later.

I’ve recovered 3 TO”s and am working on 4 and 5 now. When I did my first, I found Badrestorer’s Illustrated Guide to Restoring the Zenith Trans-Oceanic H500. It was my bible. I followed it page by page and my 600 came out great for the first one. I like the Weldwood because if the fabric is placed wrong, then you can lift and reposition it. The disadvantage is it takes 15-20 minutes for both pieces to cure before placing the piece on the wood. So it will take longer to recover the whole radio.

I did a thread here last year. (Replacing the old Stag covering on my Zenith A600 In the cabinet section). Mine was done only to show some of the tricks I learned to make the recover job a little easier. How not to make some of the mistakes I made on my first recover.

Ed. Did you use just gray Enamel paint? I’m working on a 500 now with a badly stained gray piece.

Good luck.
Freeman


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 Post subject: Re: Some Zenith Transoceanic recovering questions, glue?
PostPosted: May Sun 10, 2020 12:42 am 
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Joined: Jan Mon 16, 2012 4:15 pm
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Location: Near Brandon, Iowa
I've recovered several tube TOs using Tolex fabric and Weldwood solvent-based contact cement with nice results. I believe that the Tolex vendors recommend using a polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glue which is apparently a kind of "white glue". This has some advantages (longer setup time, won't attack the Tolex) but I like the contact cement for exactly the opposite reasons: it grabs instantly and won't let go, and it softens the Tolex just enough to allow it to be pulled into close conformity with curved edges.

If you really screw up with Weldwood, the covering can be peeled off (but not re-used) with mineral spirits.


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 Post subject: Re: Some Zenith Transoceanic recovering questions, glue?
PostPosted: May Sun 10, 2020 1:09 am 
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Freeman wrote:
Ed. Did you use just gray Enamel paint? I’m working on a 500 now with a badly stained gray piece. Freeman


Freeman, I don't recall if it was an enamel paint. I'm sure it was a Rustoleum rattle can I bought at home depot. Masking around the paper covering is a little tedious, but the results are worth it. I think I made several very light coats until it "looked" right. You want to keep as much of the texture of the covering as you can, so you don't want a thick, heavy coat.

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 Post subject: Re: Some Zenith Transoceanic recovering questions, glue?
PostPosted: May Sun 10, 2020 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Dec Tue 23, 2014 6:51 pm
Posts: 1743
Location: N. Palm Bch, Fl.
Thanks Ed. The thin coats make sense. My fear was it turning out to look like a shiny piece of plastic. Slow and easy. Nice part is the large Wavemagnet covers most of the area.

The Contact cement does seem to soften the Tolex to give all the rounded corners a nice smooth effect. The white glue may do the same. I have found some edges and sharp corners lift after a day or so. I found that Elmer's Glue-All has worked well to hold them down.

Freeman


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