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PostPosted: Oct Sun 03, 2010 10:20 pm 
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Location: Pro Tech, Philadelphia Pa.
http://www.thevoiceofmusic.com/default.asp

The P-190 cartridge kit, along with the cathode bypass cap is IMO the best choice.

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PostPosted: Oct Sun 03, 2010 11:55 pm 
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Location: Minnetonka, MN 55305
www.thevoiceofmusic.com. I had great success with the kit that Gary provides.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Mon 04, 2010 2:45 pm 
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Location: Lewes, DE
Thanks guys, I ordered the kit from VOM - look forward to seeing if I can fumble it together, I appreciate all the input and guidance.


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PostPosted: Oct Tue 05, 2010 3:05 am 
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Contact me when the kit arrives. There are several things I wish I had known before I proceeded. Not complicated but a bit intricate.

GSD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Tue 05, 2010 3:49 am 
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Location: Toledo, Ohio
GSD wrote:
Contact me when the kit arrives. There are several things I wish I had known before I proceeded. Not complicated but a bit intricate.

GSD


Please post any tips here for all of us to benefit from it!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Tue 05, 2010 2:04 pm 
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I will definitely do that GSD. I appreciate your help and guidance is something I surely need.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Thu 07, 2010 7:50 pm 
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OK GSD - got the kit and waiting for assistance.


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PostPosted: Oct Fri 08, 2010 2:32 am 
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Al, as you now know the wires and pin connectors are mighty small. I happen to have one of those jigs with alligator clips that swing into different positions, a magnifying class and weighted base.

I, cleverly I thought, placed a small female connector in the clip, lowered one of the tiny wires into the opening and presto they were neatly soldered.

What I didn't realize until it was too late is the connector should be positioned so solder DOES NOT get pulled by gravity into the opening. Of course the female connector has to slide over the pin on the cartridge. Having just filled it with solder made this this a major pain to correct.

The instructions tell you to disconnect the cartridge wires beneath the chassis. I did not find it necessary to do this so try it before adding this additional bit of brain surgery. This saved me considerable time.

As you can see your new cartridge is glued to one of the original crystal cartridge halves. Carefully drill out the two rivets that hold the original cartridge together, clean out all the crud and CAREFULLY study where to cut it latitudinally as the remaining piece has to fit properly in the head AND afford a suitable secure base for the new cartridge.

Consider the fact that the stylus has to project far enough to properly play the record. The red (front) end of the new cartridge ended up about an 1/8th inch from the inside front edge of the tone arm on my unit. This is a trial and error determination so use 1/8 as a guide rather than an absolute.

The instructions are emphatic about centering the cartridge in the tone arm to facilitate proper tracking. I used silicone construction adhesive to give me some time to maneuver while providing a viscous enough medium to provide some stability.

My little three tube amp likes the output level and audio characteristics of this cartridge. Once you are finished I predict you'll be pleased.

Hope this helps, let me know if questions arise.

GSD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Fri 08, 2010 3:20 pm 
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Location: Lewes, DE
GSD - I really appreciate you taking the time to guide me. I have only read the instructions from Gary once and got a headache - poor old brain just couldn't handle all the info at once!
I couldn't understand cutting the tone arms wires either so I'm glad you cleared that up for me. I'll get some silicone adhesive as you suggest - sounds like a very astute suggestion.
I'm going to re-read the instructions about three more time and print out your post before I get started so I can see both at the same time.
One thing I can't figure out and maybe you have some insight: If I take the tone arm off of the post, how do I determine how to reinstall at the same place? I took one off of another RCA 190 and when I went to put it back on it was nowhere near where it was before I removed it (Does any of this make sense? I seem to be babbling.)


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PostPosted: Oct Fri 08, 2010 4:49 pm 
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Location: Pro Tech, Philadelphia Pa.
Removal of the tonearm is easy.
Loosening the 1/4 inch setscrew slightly and pull arm straight up.

Replacement is almost as easy.
Set the arm down on post, *slightly tighten setecrew* enough to cause friction, but allowing the arm to *slip* on the post.

With a record on platter, manually cycle changer by hand slowly, and when arm is starting to set down on record, stop, move (if needed) arm laterally till needle is centered in lead-in portion of record edge.

Once you get it right, or even close, tighten setscrew firmly to lock the position.

Cycle changer several times and note results.
If needed, an eccentric adjustment screw under changer is used to "fine tune" the setting. (Landing Adjustment)

It is a large-headed screw accessible near the rear of the arm assembly underneath the changer.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Fri 08, 2010 5:30 pm 
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Location: Toledo, Ohio
One thing that I noticed about the 190 kits is there is 2 different methods out there to do this.

The first method is the one which the nose of the crystal shell half is cut off and the 190 glued flat to it. Problem here is the nose of the cart is now at a severe decline compared to the angle you see when the 190 is properly installed on the original mounting bracket in a standard tone arm.

The second method is to split the crystal and clean it out. Then the 190 is installed in cart half with the front section still intact. This places the 190 at a similar angle or incline to the correct degree I see this cart has attached to the original mounting bracket that came with it. This is the method I used though I see most of the kits are done using the first method.

The tone arm of the RCA 45 player goes through quite an arc playing 14 records so I am guessing there is pluses and minuses to each method. Which method do you guys use and why.

I would like to see one of Bosco's kits to see the angle his is set at as well.

This is good info and maybe should be posted in a 190 thread.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Fri 08, 2010 7:45 pm 
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Location: Lewes, DE
Thanks repairtech and bastardbus - both great and helpful tips. The kit I got from VOM uses the shell from the old cart - makes sense to me but I haven't done it yet. Thanks again guys.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Sat 09, 2010 3:08 am 
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bastardbus wrote:
One thing that I noticed about the 190 kits is there is 2 different methods out there to do this.

The first method is the one which the nose of the crystal shell half is cut off and the 190 glued flat to it. Problem here is the nose of the cart is now at a severe decline compared to the angle you see when the 190 is properly installed on the original mounting bracket in a standard tone arm.

The second method is to split the crystal and clean it out. Then the 190 is installed in cart half with the front section still intact. This places the 190 at a similar angle or incline to the correct degree I see this cart has attached to the original mounting bracket that came with it. This is the method I used though I see most of the kits are done using the first method.

The tone arm of the RCA 45 player goes through quite an arc playing 14 records so I am guessing there is pluses and minuses to each method. Which method do you guys use and why.

I would like to see one of Bosco's kits to see the angle his is set at as well.

This is good info and maybe should be posted in a 190 thread.


I Dremel the rivets flush, pop the old cartridge case apart.
Clean all the gunk out.... save the original plastic terminal/pin assembly.

Mount the P-190 at the angle it sits with its rear against the embossed bump in the housing.
With the old housing laying open end up, and setting the P-190 upside down in it, you'll see it'll sit at the proper angle.

solder up the 4 clips/wires, and double each pair for mono, carefully soldering each pair to the original terminal strip.
You should now have two wires/clips coming from each of the original pins on the plastic terminal strip.

Now, install the clips to the P-190 once the epoxy has dried, and epoxy the plastic terminal strip back to it's place on the end of the cartridge shell.
Tuck the four wires into the housing carefully.. add a drop of glue if needed.
Use the old wiring/clips if it's still good and voila... done.
Don't overtighten the cartridge mounting screws... we're not mounting a garage door here.

A small nut about 10/32 size gives a gram of added weight.. glue it onto the plastic stud projection inside the extreme front of the tonearm... you'll see what I mean.
It'll give the added bit of tracking force needed for the P-190 to track nicely..

Lastly, jump the 150 ohm cathode bias resistor with a 47-220uf 25v cap to give the amp that added bit of thump/gain.

Now you can go play Dick Clark and DJ some American Bandstand tunes and drive your neighbors, kids, and S.O. crazy.
You're now officially a nutcase on fixed income that plays with old record players.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Oct Sat 09, 2010 1:26 pm 
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Joined: Jul Fri 30, 2010 6:31 pm
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Location: Lewes, DE
Hey Repair Tech - you da man!!!!! Thanks so much. I figure if I take my time I'll have this completed just about the time the men in white jackets come to take me away. I am old and on a fixed income and look forward to being able to play with old record players. Thanks again.
PS: say a prayer for me as my shaky old hands attempt to install the P190.


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 Post subject: Re: Astatic 89T (RCA 45 Player) revisited
PostPosted: Nov Tue 03, 2015 1:59 am 
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Joined: Dec Mon 14, 2009 7:16 pm
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wow...this went on for a while didn't it ?
:D


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 Post subject: Re: Astatic 89T (RCA 45 Player) revisited
PostPosted: Nov Thu 19, 2015 8:02 am 
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Location: York, PA
Yes, and now there are fewer options for the 45 cartridge.
Willie still offers his Low Rider, but Gary at VM is down to just two offerings- and the P190 and P228 aren't either of them!
His two choices are now the .35v P188 Chuo Denshi CZ-800 and the lesser P51.
Is this P-188 the same as what Willie uses in the Low Rider??
What is the most popular cartridge being used now???

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 Post subject: Re: Astatic 89T (RCA 45 Player) revisited
PostPosted: Nov Thu 19, 2015 5:08 pm 
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Location: Elk Grove, CA
I have been using the 188 for a while now. I don't have Willies nicely milled channel, but I pick up the channel at
Ace Hardware, cut to length and use a dremel to cut the channel so it fit between the mounts. Then use the 188 directly wired rather than the handy two pin Willy has. Works great, doesn't look as sweet, but sounds just the same.


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 Post subject: Re: Astatic 89T (RCA 45 Player) revisited
PostPosted: Jan Wed 06, 2016 3:02 am 
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This is a great thread - thanks for all the info! I have a 45EY4 that I recapped and replaced the drive and idler wheels on, etc. I had few choices for the cartridge and am experiencing the same shrillness that was described here, and altho it has good volume, it is way up on the vol control, past the taps. I did put a 100mfd bypass on the cathode resistor, helped a little. Not sure what I should do next if anything! I have tried the VOM K45A, K45B and K45D versions that I bought a couple years back, nothing really seems to help. Should I try the P188 or am I chasing ghosts here? The input resistor is 680K bypassed with an 820pf cap. Thanks folks!


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 Post subject: Re: Astatic 89T (RCA 45 Player) revisited
PostPosted: May Sat 25, 2019 6:47 am 
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It was a great thread wasn't it? *smile*


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 Post subject: Re: Astatic 89T (RCA 45 Player) revisited
PostPosted: May Sat 25, 2019 11:05 pm 
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Joined: Mar Thu 19, 2009 4:00 pm
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Location: Mid Michigan
It's interesting to see this thread come back after all this time. I have tried several different carts on my 45 players over the years.
For my first restoration, a Decca - branded 45j2, I used an Astatic 89tx. The "x" signifies a diamond lp tip. I mounted it by removing the socket from an Astatic mount, cutting off the turnover lever and gluing it into the tonearm using shims to get the correct stylus height and overhang. It works like a champ except that the level is slightly low, however still very adequate. The next cartridge I used was one of Gary Stork's offerings on a 45j. This one was a very good choice although the distortion level is slightly higher than I would like, but then I am used to hearing my records played with a good mag cartridge. For the last one I did, another 45j, I installed a Sonotone 8t ceramic. The sonotones were excellent cartridges in their day and this one still gives excellent sound. Any of the Sonotones including the mono 1t and 2t and the stereo 8t and 9t, all of which I have used over the years, give excellent sound quality and track well in these old changers. Unfortunately nowadays they are where you find them. Note: all of the changers I have restored are setup to play 14 or 15 records in a stack and do it well.

Jim


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