I used Minwax Furniture Refinisher on the top. The wood underneath was clean and free from scratches, so it should look great once it's all done. I'm going to replace the missing veneer on the edges, sand it lightly and stain it. Then, lacquer.
I only did the top because it was warm - 50's - for only a little while the other day. It's January in MA. I'm not planning on really being able to finish the stripping and finishing and stuff until summer when it's warmer here.

Quick update. We had another warm day here in eastern MA - 58 - so I was able to do some more stripping. I got most of the rest off before I ran out of refinisher. The only panel left is the one with the best - and therefore most - remaining finish. The original patina'd and cracked finish is gone, as are the original control decals and the gold trim around the screen area. All down to the bare wood.

I've been reading your electronic repair and now cabinet repair with interest: I love doing basket cases, and you are doing really great. Congratulations.

I've gotten the old finish fully stripped off now - we had some more warm days. This time I used a goopy stripper recommended by the guy at the hardware store. It was ok but slow. I went and got more Minwax Antique Finish Restorer and that works fast and clean. The color of the original wood stain is great . I hope I can get it right later on.

Another warm day, another chance for some outdoor woodworking. Today I got all of the areas where the new veneer needs to go, sanded. The big side and top were VERY warped - each board was basically concave. Many hours of sanding and filing later, I believe the exposed areas are ready for the new veneer.

Many props to Radio Daze. They created deals for the faceplate glass, and now offer it as a standard product - printed on glass and everything - at http://www.radiodaze.com/philco-model-48-1000-television-screen-glass-item-fp-ph-48-1000/. I'd shipped them the original glass from my TV, and they printed it on that for me. Awesome!
Remember, too, that they updated their 48-1000 control decal set for me (http://www.radiodaze.com/philco-48-1000-decal-set/) to include the hidden controls under the pull down panel. They've been great.

You're right, Radio Daze did a really nice job!

Really useful to have them. Folks over here use them as well, costs a bit more with the shipping. I have one radio with one of their dials in.

If I can do it with one screen cost is about the same so I normally create the artwork and drive up the road ... Every extra screen is another £40 so R.D. is the way to go then. Odd that there isn't a flat bed printing service over here.

Gary

I'm joining this party late. I'm on my first radio restore and have a cabinet that needs some gluing to get it structurally sound again. What kind of glue did you use?

Budward - mostly I used Titebond 3 wood glue. But I've also used elmers wood glue with no problem. I researched glue when I started and my impression is that unless there is a special need - heat, moisture, extra strength, or something like that - that any of the wood glues is pretty good.
One thing that has been a GREAT help is the injector kit. With these syringe-like things I can get glue deep between boards and into other small or tight spots.

Thanks. The injector kit looks like a handy item to have. Googling now.

Budward - here's the Rockler squeeze pack on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DVVKH2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ordered. Thanks again.

So, here is my plan for the refinishing, once I get the veneers on. I'll be practicing all of this on a test board of the new mahogany veneer. Not sure I'll do the "**" items.

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sand - down to barest possible, good-surface wood
**wood conditioner - do I need do to this before the stain?
stain - not too much, but enough for a deep color
Sanding sealer - to prevent the grain filler from staining the wood (i.e. preserving the just-stained color)
grain filler - to fill in the grain divots
sanding sealer - after grain filler to do final evening out
initial clear lacquer - several coats, sand between - goal is very smooth surface to support the decals and the base’s black paint
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black paint - mask it off, paint the base and picture-frame insides black
rub out black - maybe to soften the gloss black a little, use some steel wool on the black layer
gold paint - paint inner edge of picture-frame
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decals - apply the decals to the nice now-smooth surface
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final clear lacquer - several coats, sand between
**final semi-gloss coat - add a semi-gloss coat or two, over the gloss layers?
rub out - to nice rich deep satiny finish
paste wax - wax and buff
done - finally
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Some questions on staining the original wood. It appears that the sides of the cabinet are solid wood, or at least a solid sheet of veneer. The top is veneer definitely, similar to the new veneer I have - little strips of mahogany in a sheet. I sanded a little area of both with 100 - see below. I'm wondering whether there will be an issue with the wood taking the modern Minwax stain? (I'm going with red mahogany, most likely - we'll see how the test board comes out). Should I sand the original wood more? less? Any issue with the old stain or dye interfering with the new stain?

All sanded down with 220 and 320 grit. The top is still mottled from the water damage but it's as smooth as I can make it. I'd rather keep the original veneer on top rather than install a new, fully flat sheet. I think I have enough of the old finish off now that the new stain and everything should take. Evenly. Hopefully.

There are traces of the original finish left. While sanding I came across a patch under the front controls. It matches up almost exactly with the test board I'm working on. I think I'm on the right track.

Looking pretty good! Compared with what this cabinet looked like when you started, you've come a long way.

Tom

First application of black lacquer, to the fold-down control cover. I sprayed a few coats of minwax clear lacquer to seal the wood, gave it a light sanding, then several coats of the black. So far nice and smooth and clear. There will be a few more coats of minwax clear, then rubbing out to hopefully a nice lustery finish.

This is my test board. I'm not sure what the substrate is - just some scrap I had around. On top of that is what I will be applying to the TV cabinet - 1/16 maple veneer, and over that 1/32 mahogany veneer. When I stained the test board, the mahogany came out great. The maple didn't absorb very much though. As this will layer will be visible along at least one seem on the TV, I need to darken it. I tried extra stain and a brown sharpie, but neither really did well. The maple is just very hard.

Any recommendations on how to darken the maple layer?