I bought a Crosley Super Eleven last year in a garage sale and have looked at some of the archives. A Gregd also was asking about it in June 13, 2010 and I followed the thread.
While the unit is in very good condition there are at least two tubes are broken, and I'm sure others are bad and need of testing. Then there is talk on the thread of a potentially bad resistor and I also need to rewire and ground the chassis.
As I'm new to this, I have three questions before I plunge into the endeavor of making it functional are:
Where can I find a tube tester (without having to buy one online)in the Portland Oregon area without having to purchase $200 of new/old tubes?
Will replacing the cord with the ground am I hurting the value while making it safer? (No such thing as a dumb question; only dumb people!)
Is the value of this radio when it works worth the time and money? ( The wife asked me that.)

mine had severe problems when i got it for a song.

i sunk quite a bit of time and money into mine, but for me, it was well worth it in the end.

it is a fantastic radio and is one of my favorites.

here is the thread:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=229222

here is the vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrZWC68hh5w

transformer selection thread:

http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/vie ... 1&t=226051

steve

You say you have looked at other threads. Did any of those mention replacing capacitors? The filter (electrolytic) and any wax \ paper caps will need to be replaced. Do you have a schematic? Do you read schematics?

Dutch Rabbit-Thanks for all the information. I got mine for a song as well. Thanks for responding. I'll download the thread.
Too bad about all the tube testers going by the wayside. i managed a Radio Shack in 1975-76. Pretty sure they were calibrated to show a good tube as weak, (to sell more tubes), but at least it was a starting point. Hope that someone in the Portland OR area can respond to this tester issue as well.

I can read schematics and realize that the capacitors and wiring may need replacing as well, but this hobby is new to me, so thanks again for all the support. I have a couple of good Fluke meters I use at work that can help.

I look forward to getting the project completed, though it will take a little time and a chunk of change. Thanks again.

If it looks as good as the one in the other thread when finished, yea, it is worth it. 200$ for tubes? Doubtful you would spend that much on them. Probably the eye tube is sort of expensive if it is bad. For safety I would consider adding a fuse versus a 3 wire power cord as being more valuable for safety, after the thing is finished. But if you want to add a grounded power cord, it won't really hurt value I don't think. Presumably no one will get in contact with the chassis during use, anyway. Mirror dial Crosleys are desireable to collectors and non collectors for cosmetics. I have restored a mirror dial tabletop radio for someone and got another to do for myself, when the time comes.

wazz- That's a good idea on the fuse. The cord may be original as the tag is still attached. I haven't checked it out electrically, just priced all the tubes but pretty sure they don't all need replacing. but now have the schematic. You guys are a big help.
The radio is in good cosmetic shape but does not look like Dutch Rabbit's. Still will take time to replace the wax capacitors and check the output of xfmrs, but this radio restoration hobby is new to me. Thanks for the input.

A fuse could be hidden inside the chassis so it does not affect the collector value of the set visually, and at least it would avoid drilling a hole in the chassis for a holder. The original power cord should be carefully inspected over it's full length for damage that might cause a short. Otherwise it is nice to have that if the cord is in excellent condition. Still, probably not as safe as a modern replacement over time. For radios that are not being used or only used occasionally, left unplugged, it is not that big an issue. I looked at the tubes list and none of them seem like super rare or expensive. Plus some of them are dupes used so if you want spares, there is no need to get multiples of the same tube after the set is working. I hope the glass dial is intact and the speaker is, also. You might get lucky and all the tubes might be functional unless damaged.

I wouldn't worry about tubes or a tube tester first. Unless tubes are missing entirely, they generally are one of the last things to be concerned about.

As was mentioned earlier, change the electrolytic caps first. Then you can apply power and assess where you're at. It's probably a good idea to make a dim bulb tester to bring it up on power the first time: https://www.antiqueradio.org/dimbulb.htm

-Kevin

i believe i spent somewhere between $350 and $400 until it was all said and done.

whether it is worth that or not for a resell, my kid or future grandkids can worry about that.

although i'm only pushing age 49, i plan to enjoy it for quite some time yet .

i absolutely love that radio and do not regret sinking the dough in it that i did. whether i could sell it for $50 or $500, it isn't going anywhere .

steve

thank you for the compliment.

steve

Steve, Kevin and Wazz,
You gentlemen are terrific! Thanks so much for the comments. There are two tubes broken and will be replaced after I replace the caps and rewire/terminate. The dial is in great shape and the speaker is original with a 3 inch tear in the paper,so I'd rather repair it than replace it. The windings are at 4 ohms, so the coil is good. The cabinet has its original finish with only some minor scratches. The knobs are original and the decals above said knobs are perfect.
Because of you guys' I'll endeavor to bring the old gal back to life. I'll keep you posted next week after I inspect the chassis. I'm two years away from retirement,so I still have a plant to maintain. Thanks again.
Rick

great !

steve

I've only seen a handful of chassis in person where the entire thing needed re-wiring. Unless the wiring is burned (a sign the set was struck by lightning - then you'll have other problems as well) or is otherwise in bad physical shape (a lot of broken or missing insulation), there's no need to completely re-wire a chassis. As the others have said, I would count on ALL electrolytic and paper capacitors in the set needing replacement. Go ahead and get replacements for the two tubes that are missing, but as the others have said, the odds are in your favor that the rest are likely ok. Check resistors and replace any that are more than +/- 20% of their value.

Unless you have experience repairing and troubleshooting complex electronic circuits, an 11 tube set is a lot for a beginner. I'd start with something simpler and work my way up to this set.

I am grateful for the information and will check the resistors as well. This is my first project but I've been electrician since 1978.
When I first surveyed all the tubes I realized it would cost me about $175 to replace them that wasn't my intention to replace all of them I just wanted to see what the cost was.
I was assuming all the capacitors were bad however
After the chassis is complete I will test it with a dim light bulb tester as well. It certainly helps to have the schematic on hand so thanks again to all of

If you are still looking for help testing tubes, and can make it to Oregon City, the NWVRS is having their meeting this Saturday the 10th. I'm sure someone would be willing to help. Their swap meet in Portland is scheduled for April and typically free tube testing is offered there as well, plus vendors who would likely have whatever replacements you need.

when you restore it, there is one or two low value capactors that have a metal strap grounded to the chassis. i believe they/it were/was bolted to the chassis.

this/these is/are dual capacitors, such that there are two low value capacitors inside what looks like it is to be one capacitor.

this metal strap is the common ground. each lead coming out of the capacitor is the lead of capacitor 1 and capacitor 2.

it looks to be C17 and C19 as per the schematic.

please verify this just in case there was a variation in production somewhere.

steve

Thank you Steve that's going to be a big help I'll mark it on the schematic and I can save this thread anyway I hope to show it to you by April
Rick

great, do let us know.

steve

Just watched your video Steve, great looks and sound. You did a great job on that one!

thank you for the compliment.

steve