I am working on this radio for a customer:Oddly enough I have not been able to find a model number anywhere. Here is the label on the bottom:Based on the info I've found on RadioMuseum (https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/montgomery_84wg2015b.html) I believe it's either an 84WG-2015A or 84WG-2015B. I'm pretty sure I can handle the electrical restoration but I haven't found anything about the record player so I'm hoping someone can help me out, either with some documentation, or just general info. This label is also on the bottom of the cabinet:So I think the record changer is model number 148-2. My preferred method for restoring these things is to disassemble them completely, clean and lubricate, and reassemble. But I'm going in somewhat blind on this one and need to be sure I can do the last step (reassemble) correctly. Here are a couple of pics of the record changer:

Any help out there?

Thanks!

Rich

Hi Rich,
Here's a link also from radio museum with the Webster-Chicago
model 148 Rider's reference Volume 18.

The page also gives a SAMS Photofact Vol.9/50 Date 2-50 Set 86 Folder 12.

Rider's can be found for free on the internet.

Let us know how the restoration goes.
Hotwax

https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/webster_148.html

Beautiful! Sorry, I should have been smart enough to look under Webster-Chicago, but thanks for steering me in the right direction. That's some great info. I got anxious and went ahead with the disassembly before seeing this, but took tons of pictures and this info will help immensely when it comes time to reassemble.

Thanks!

Rich

Disassembly is nearly complete, cleaning is nearly complete, and reassembly has begun. But I'm having problems removing the main cam from its shaft...the circular part in this photo:The grease has completely dried out and is acting like cement. I've been applying lacquer thinner to both ends in hopes that it would eventually work it's way down the shaft and loosen it up. I'll continue this process unless someone can suggest a better method. Would I be better off using WD-40 or penetrating fluid? How about heat? Would that soften it, or would that just lock it on tighter?

Thanks!

Rich

I have applied ZoomSpout turbine oil to penetrate, then I used
a long-tipped butane lighter to heat up the metal.

This was done on some 1970's BSR changers that invariably have
the cam wheel cemented by the old British "epoxy" grease.
Sometime it took several attempts with heat to release.

So, I believe heat will eventually work on this project, as long
as the parts are all metal.
Hotwax

Thanks Hotwax...I'll try a heat gun later on.

For lubrication, the manual calls out the following:

No. 10 oil - I have some 3-In-1 oil I can use
Lubriplate - When restoring a jukebox last year I found a recommendation for using "Sta-Lube SL3141 Moly-Graph Extreme Pressure Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease" (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C ... UTF8&psc=1) in place of Lubriplate since it is no longer available.
Sta-Put - I'm not sure what to use here. I see Sta-Put is available but it looks like there is a variety to choose from. They call for it to be used here:

Teeth of main cam actuating gear
Track of main cam gear
Teeth of large and small idler gears
Raising lever bracket bearing surfaces

Any recommendations for what type of lubricant to use in these places?

Thanks!
Rich

RE: Lubrication.

Some time back on ARF, I was recommended Super Lube
multi-purpose synthetic grease.

I have used it since, and it is a good product, and not costly.

Should be available for purchase most anywhere.
Hotwax

I've used Super Lube with great success. I found mine at Harbor Freight. With my 20% off coupon, it cost me $5.59.

Tom

Have you tried removing the screw?

Bill J.

Thanks guys! A little heat, and off it came:My local Ace Hardware had some Super Lube in stock so I stopped by to pick up a tube, but they wanted $9.69. So I drove across town to the Harbor Freight and picked up a tube for $5.59 after 20% discount...thanks Tom!

The shaft was sightly loose, possibly from me trying to remove the cam. So I cleaned up the area with some sandpaper, followed by alcohol.I make my own golf clubs so I mixed up some shafting epoxy to glue it in place.I designed and printed a clamp on the 3D printer to 1) hold the shaft steady, and 2) make sure it was vertical.
It'll probably be Friday before I can continue reassembling, but it's moving along!

Bill - the screw is just there to make sure I don't lose it and I know where it goes. It does not hold the cam on the shaft...it's for mounting the sub-plate to the main phono chassis.

Rich